Chainsaw Use, Safety and Maintenance

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1 Chainsaw Use, Safety and Maintenance Manual Mennonite Disaster Service (Reprinted, with permission, from Look for other Lowe s home improvement, decorating, and landscaping books along with all the tools and materials you need at your local Lowe s store.

2 July 2005 Table of Contents Guide to Buying a Chainsaw...3 A. Types of Chainsaws...3 B. Decisions, Decisions...3 C. When Shopping for Chainsaws...4 Chainsaw Safety...5 A. Safety and the Saw...5 B. Safety and the Sawyer...5 C. Making the Cut...6 D. Dos and Don ts...6 Maintaining Your Chainsaw...7 A. Tools and Materials...7 B. Preventive Maintenance Check/Adjust Chain Tension Check/Service the Chain Oiling System Tighten all Screws and Fasteners Inspect the Fuel System Inspect the Chain Brake Mechanism (if equipped) Inspect the Kickback Guard (if equipped) Clean or replace the Air Filter Lubricate the Sprocket Tip Turn the Guide Bar Inspect and Clean/Replace the Spark Plug Inspect and Clean/Replace the Spark Arrester Screen Replace the Fuel Filter...13 C. Additional Maintenance Procedures...13 D. Storage Procedures...13 E. Removing the Saw from Storage

3 F. Carburetor Adjustment...14 G. Chain Sharpening...14 Guide to Buying a Chainsaw A chainsaw is one of those tools that can be described thusly: When you need one, nothing else will really do. From the original gas-powered saws that took two people to operate to today's lightweight homeowner versions, the chainsaw has come a long way in the last 40 years. Use our chainsaw guide to determine the machine that s right for you. A. Types of Chainsaws There are two types of chainsaws: gasoline-powered and electric. Your access to a power source helps determine which type you need, so think about where your woodcutting projects are going to be. Gasoline-powered chainsaws use a two-cycle engine (requiring mixing of oil and gas). Mobility and power are the main advantages of gas. Disadvantages include the bother and smell of mixing oil and gas, pull cord starting and the additional overall maintenance needed. Electric saws are great for smaller yard chores. They're quieter than their gaspowered cousins, lightweight, easy to start and require less maintenance. However, they have less power than gasoline-powered saws. They also add the bother of dragging a cord around behind you. Pole saws are available in both gas and electric versions. These slightly smaller versions of their larger cousins are mounted on an extension pole. The cutting reach is extended up to 12' (depending on the model). B. Decisions, Decisions Before you go shopping, look around the yard and think about the jobs you plan on tackling. The size of the wood you plan to cut and how often you cut are factors in selecting the proper tool. Think about how large and powerful a saw you can handle comfortably and safely. Chainsaws come in many sizes. Saws are measured by two means: Bar length and engine displacement. Bar length is measured from the cutting tip to where the chain enters the housing. Bar length represents the active cutting area the largest size wood the saw will cut in a single pass. When determining the size you need remember the saw's actual safe cutting ability is twice the bar's length (ex. a saw with a 14" bar can cut through a 28" log). Standard bar lengths for most homeowner saws are 14", 16", 18" and 20". Although these are only two inch increments, each larger size brings increased 3

4 weight and power. Larger saws also increase the safety concerns for the user. Sizes over 20" can be hard to handle leave these for the pros. Engine displacement is an impressive term that simply measures a gasoline engine's size. The measurement is represented as cubic centimeters (cc) or cubic inches (cu. in.). Use these measurements to compare models. A higher number delivers more power. Homeowner models have less than 3.8 cu. in. (62 cc) ratings, though most of these saws normally range from 1.5 to 2.8 cu. in. You may also notice other numbers, the chain pitch and chain gauge. These are probably most important to remember when replacing a chain. Chain pitch is the spacing of the rivets on the chain. The saw's sprocket has the same spacing. The normal pitch is 3/8". Chain gauge is the thickness of the chain. It should fit the groove in the bar. SAFETY NOTE: A chainsaw is a powerful tool and commands attention to safety. Always read and follow the manufacturer's instructions C. When Shopping for Chainsaws Try to find a good combination of size and power. Power matters most if you'll be cutting hardwood (oak, maple, etc.) rather than softwood (pine, fir, etc.). Remember that with power comes weight. A large saw can get pretty heavy after a long session of cutting. Larger saws also create more vibration. You lefties especially may want to handle one before buying since they're basically all made for right-handed people. What may look like a lot of "bells and whistles" are really some pretty smart features. Look for these comfort and convenience add-ons: Anti-vibration buffers the shock of the impact on blade and chain on wood (especially handy if you'll be cutting for an extended period of time). Quick start electronic ignition reduces the pulling force needed for starting (available on some gas models). Automatic chain oiler lubricates for safe and efficient cutting. Quick-adjust chain allows the user to change the cutting chain tension easily. Muffler reduces noise. Exhaust air cleaning system cleans air before it gets to the air filter to help extend filter life. 4

5 Carrying case provides convenience and helps protect the saw. You need more than just a saw. Protective clothing is an essential part of the woodcutter's toolbox. ALWAYS wear protective clothing, including: Leg protection such as chaps, leggings or cut resistant pants. Hard hat if there's any material overhead. Gloves or mittens with an enhanced gripping surface. Eye protection with side shields. Hearing protection such as earplugs or earmuffs. Boots or shoes with steel toes and nonskid soles. Chainsaw Safety You won't find a tool with more power per inch than a chainsaw. With that power comes a need for extra attention to safety. All of the new and efficient safety features do not replace training in correct saw use, proper cutting technique, caution and common sense. A. Safety and the Saw All tools should be used with caution. Chainsaws are no exception. They are powerful tools. A saw blade at full throttle moves at fifty miles per hour and commands extra attention to safety. Among the common safety features on homeowner saws are: Chain brake stops the chain immediately if kickback occurs. Low-kickback chain reduces the energy when kickback occurs. Bar tip guard/tip stabilizer keeps the tip of the saw from touching the wood. Chain oiler provides lubricant to the bar and chain to prevent overheating and binding. Hand guard protects your hands from kickback. Throttle lockout trigger keeps the motor idling but doesn't engage the chain. Stop switch allows the operator to shut off the saw without letting go of the saw. Spark arrester prevents exhaust from being a fire hazard. All homeowner-sized saws are required to have chain brakes and anti kickback safety features. Some of the other features listed above are available only on gas-powered saws. B. Safety and the Sawyer 5

6 Before you even think about cranking the saw and starting to cut, protect yourself. ALWAYS wear protective clothing, including: Leg protection such as chaps, leggings or cut resistant pants. Hard hat if there's any material overhead. Gloves or mittens with an enhanced gripping surface. Eye protection with side shields. Hearing protection such as earplugs or earmuffs. Boots or shoes with steel toes and nonskid soles. C. Making the Cut Felling is the act of cutting (or dropping) a tree. Look and look again at what you re going to be cutting - especially where it will fall. Always determine the angle the tree will fall and make the correct cuts. Falling trees tend to kick straight back. Plan a clear avenue to escape the falling tree, moving away from the trunk at an angle, not straight back. Clear debris that may cause you to trip. Limbing and bucking is what you do to the tree you just dropped. Just because the tree is down don't let down your guard. Taking off the limbs (limbing) and cutting the tree into manageable pieces (bucking) still require caution. Always work on the uphill side when cutting. See how the tree is balanced and which way it will move if a supporting branch is cut. Take special care to avoid binding and kickback that can occur when the weight shifts. Binding and kickback are dangerous situations you face when cutting. In either case the operator loses control of the saw. Binding is caused when the material being cut clamps down and stalls the cutting chain inside of the kerf (or cut). Kickback occurs when the saw tip touches another object or the blade is pinched. The saw is thrown back towards the user. A saw cutting at full throttle can kick back in one-tenth of one second - faster than a person can react. Never cut with the saw's tip! Kickback can result. D. Dos and Don'ts Above all, read the owner's manual carefully before operating a chainsaw. The following list is not all-inclusive, merely a reminder to keep safety first in your mind at all times. Do Keep the cutting area clear of spectators and pets. Work with a partner if possible. Note any overhead hazards, including hanging tree limbs and utility lines. Keep the chain clean, sharp and lubricated. Be careful with fuel. 6

7 Stay on the ground, don't cut from a ladder. Stand to the side when cutting. Cut at full throttle; bring the saw up to speed before starting cuts. Keep both hands on the saw handles. Let the saw come to a complete stop before reaching for the chain or blade. Buy the correct size and type of replacement chain and install it carefully according to the manufacturer's instructions. When running an electric saw, use a cord rated for outdoor use. Cut wood only. Dirt and rocks are not meant to touch the chain. Be careful with small branches - unweighted limbs may spring back when cut. Adjust the depth gauge setting every time you sharpen the chain. Maintain proper chain saw tension. A loose chain can come off the guide bar and strike the operator. Don't DON'T touch a hot muffler. DON'T cut above chest height. DON'T use the bar for leverage, it s there to guide and support the cutting chain. DON'T bury the tip in the wood. DON'T push the saw. Let the saw do the work. If you find that you have to push, stop and sharpen the chain. DON'T refuel a hot saw. DON'T drop start the saw. DON'T operate a saw when using alcohol, drugs or when you're fatigued. Maintaining Your Chainsaw A chainsaw makes short work of cutting firewood, pruning saplings and felling trees. Though these machines require little upkeep in return for years of service, some basic maintenance must be performed. A. Tools and Materials Basic hand tools Carburetor cleaner Combination spark plug/guide bar wrench Goggles Bar and chain oil Fresh fuel/oil mixture Gloves Shop rags Spark plug gapping tool SAFETY NOTE: Service your saw only when it's fully cooled, with the spark plug disconnected. If you are servicing an electric chainsaw, unplug it first. Wear gloves and eye protection. 7

8 Sprocket lubricant Spare parts as needed B. Preventive Maintenance Use the following checklist and schedule for servicing your saw. Maintenance Check/Adjust Chain Tension Check/Service the Chain Oiling System Tighten All Screws and Fasteners Inspect the Fuel System Inspect the Chain Brake Mechanism (if equipped) Inspect the Kickback Guard (if equipped) Clean or Replace the Air Filter Lubricate the Sprocket Tip Turn the Guide Bar Inspect and Clean/Replace the Spark Plug Inspect and Clean/Replace the Spark Arrester Screen Replace the Fuel Filter Additional Maintenance Procedures Frequency every use every use every use every use every use every use every 10 hours of use every 10 hours of use every 10 hours of use every 10 hours of use every 10 hours of use every 20 hours of use as needed 8

9 1. Check/Adjust Chain Tension Correct chain tension is necessary for safe and effective operation. As a chain wears, it stretches significantly. A new chain can need readjustment in just five to ten cuts. A loose chain can bind in the wood or separate from the guide bar, while a tight chain causes premature chain and guide bar wear. A well adjusted chain moves easily and smoothly when pulled with a gloved hand. The chain should not bind or sag. Loosen the guide bar retaining nuts. 1. Loosen the guide bar retaining nuts located on the side of the saw where the guide bar attaches to the motor. 2. Locate the chain tension adjustment screw on the front of the motor housing near the guide bar. 3. Turn the screw clockwise to increase tension, counterclockwise to decrease tension. At the optimum setting, the chain should be snug but move freely when pulled with a gloved hand. 4. If the tension screw stops and the chain is still too loose, replace the chain. Good idea: Purchase a replacement chain before the existing chain wears out, so you have a spare when you need it. 5. When the chain tension is adjusted, tighten the guide bar retaining nuts while holding the guide bar in its uppermost position. 2. Check/Service the Chain Oiling System Most chainsaws use a manual or automatic chain oiling system. Oil keeps friction and heat from building between the chain and guide bar. It also helps the individual links in the chain operate smoothly at high speeds. 1. To test the oiling system, hold the saw 2-3" above a white piece of paper and rev the saw a few times. If your saw has a manual chain oil control, depress the oil lever while revving the saw. You should see a light mist of oil hit on the piece of paper. If oil is not dispensed during this test, the oiling system is not working properly. 2. Make sure the oil reservoir is full. 3. Remove the chain and check the oil passages on the guide bar. If the guide bar is dirty, clean it with a shop rag. 4. Check the oil outlets located near the clutch and sprocket assembly, behind the guide bar mounts. After use, this area is often caked with 9

10 sawdust and chain oil. A careful cleaning usually restores the oiling system's performance. Consult your owner's manual for specific locations of the oil outlets on your saw. 5. If you have performed the steps listed above and the oiling system doesn't function properly, take your saw to an authorized service center. 3. Tighten All Screws and Fasteners Carefully check all fasteners and tighten as necessary. Chainsaws are subjected to heavy vibration that can quickly loosen bolts. Pay particular attention to fasteners securing the bar, chain and safety guards. 4. Inspect the Fuel System Before each use, check for leaking fuel around the fuel filler cap, near the carburetor or at the base of the engine casing. If a leak is detected, take the saw to a licensed service center for repair. Do not operate the saw with a fuel leak. 5. Inspect the Chain Brake Mechanism (if equipped) The chain brake mechanism is designed to stop the chain in the event of a "kickback" caused by the chain striking a stationary object, binding and swinging violently toward the operator. Before each use, make sure the mechanism is working correctly. If the mechanism fails, follow the manufacturer's suggested service procedures or take the saw to an authorized service center for repair. Do not disassemble or attempt to service the chain brake mechanism yourself. 6. Inspect the Kickback Guard (if equipped) The kickback guard covers the chain at the tip of the guide bar in front of the sprocket wheel. By preventing contact with stationary objects, the guard helps prevent violent kickbacks. The guard should not be altered or removed. If the guard is defective in any way, install a replacement. Failure to maintain the kickback guard can result in serious injury. 7. Clean or Replace the Air Filter Regular air filter maintenance allows your saw to run cooler and use less fuel. 1. Find the air filter on your saw (it's usually located behind a vented, removable cover near the rear of the motor). 2. Remove the cover and carefully extract the filter. Cleaned foam filter before the vented cover is reinstalled. 3. Clean or replace the filter as necessary. Clean foam elements with soapy 10

11 water, rinse with clean water, allow to dry and reinstall. Replace paper elements. Never run your saw without an air filter. 8. Lubricate the Sprocket Tip The sprocket at the end of the guide bar should be lubricated in accordance with the manufacturer's guidelines. On most saws sprocket lubrication requires a special tool with a heavy gauge needle, grease reservoir and a plunger handle. These tools are available where parts for your chainsaw are sold. Inject grease into the lubrication hole near the sprocket's center shaft. When small amounts of grease appear at the edges of the guide bar near the sprocket, lubrication is complete. 9. Turn the Guide Bar To promote an even wear pattern on the top and bottom of the guide bar, flip the bar over and reinstall after every 10 hours of use. If the bar shows excessive wear or is damaged, replace it with a new guide bar before using your chainsaw again. To flip the guide bar, follow these instructions: 1. Remove the shroud covering the clutch and chain drive sprocket by removing the two bar retaining nuts. 2. Release tension on the chain by turning the adjustment screw counterclockwise. The chain adjustment screw is located on the front of the motor housing near the guide bar. 3. Remove the chain. 4. Remove the bar protector plate. Note its placement for correct reassembly. 5. Remove the guide bar, flip the bar over and reinstall. 11

12 10. Inspect and Clean/Replace the Spark Plug A dirty or worn spark plug can cause erratic performance and hard starting. The spark plug should be inspected after every 10 hours of use and cleaned or replaced as necessary. 1. Remove the spark plug connector by pulling and slightly twisting the rubber boot. Do not remove the connector by gasping the wire. Never remove the spark plug connector by pulling the wire. 2. Using a spark plug wrench, remove the spark plug and inspect the electrode tip. Make sure the plug is clean and free of any large carbon deposits. 3. Clean carefully using carburetor cleaner and fine-grit sandpaper or an emery board. Using a gapping tool, gap the spark plug to the manufacturer's specification and reinstall. If the plug is A worn spark plug has a slightly rounded electrode. worn, replace it with a new plug gapped to the manufacturer's specification. Worn spark plugs have a slightly rounded electrode. 11. Inspect and Clean/Replace the Spark Arrester Screen The spark arrester screen is located inside the chainsaw's muffler. It prevents sparks from exiting the exhaust port and injuring the operator or falling on flammable materials. Oily deposits can clog the screen and diminish the saw's performance. 1. Locate the chainsaw's muffler. 2. Remove the heat shield (generally a vented plastic or metal guard) and disassemble the muffler. 3. Remove the spark arrester screen. Clean carefully using carburetor cleaner. If the screen is damaged, replace it with a new screen. 4. Reassemble the muffler and replace the muffler guard. Disassembled chainsaw muffler with spark arrester screen removed. 12

13 12. Replace the Fuel Filter Most chainsaws use an in-tank fuel filter. If the filter becomes clogged, poor performance can result. 1. Open the fuel filler cap, drain the tank. Dispose of old fuel in accordance with local ordinances regarding petroleum waste. The filter is mounted on the end of the fuel pickup hose inside the tank. 2. Before removing the existing fuel filter, have a replacement on hand. 3. To remove the filter, carefully pull the end of the fuel pickup hose to the opening at the top of the tank. Do not disconnect the hose from the saw. If the hose becomes disconnected, take the saw to an authorized repair center. 4. Carefully separate the old filter from the hose by lightly pulling and twisting the filter casing while holding the end of the hose steady. Install the new filter in the same manner. Fill the fuel tank with fresh fuel/oil mixture. C. Additional Maintenance Procedures Depending on use, some chainsaws require special maintenance procedures. Perform the following procedures to ensure maximum performance and prolong the service life of your saw. D. Storage Procedures If the saw will not be used for more than 30 days, follow these storage instructions: 1. Drain the fuel tank. Unleaded gasoline destabilizes in 30 days or less, making the saw difficult to start. 2. Run the engine until it stops to clean fuel from the carburetor. Old fuel in the carburetor can foul the spark plug, clog fuel lines and make the saw difficult to start. 3. After the engine has cooled, remove the spark plug and add a tablespoon of 2-cycle oil to the combustion chamber. The oil displaces water vapor and inhibits rust. 4. Slowly pull the starter cord a few times to coat all internal parts. 5. Replace the spark plug. 13

14 E. Removing the Saw from Storage 1. Pull the starter cord briskly to clear oil from the combustion chamber. 2. Clean and re-gap the spark plug. 3. Fill the fuel tank with fresh fuel/oil mixture. 4. Inspect the saw's oiling system, chain, guide bar and all safety features before operation. F. Carburetor Adjustment Chainsaw carburetors are adjusted for optimal performance and efficiency from the factory and generally do not require readjustment. If your chainsaw's carburetor needs readjustment, take it to an authorized service center. Incorrect adjustment can cause the engine to run too lean and starve internal components for oil, resulting in engine seizure. G. Chain Sharpening During normal use, the chain blades eventually become dull. You should sharpen the chain blades periodically. If you want to sharpen the chainsaw blade yourself, follow the manufacturer's instructions. Specially designed sharpening files or special sharpening attachments for your rotary tool are available at your local Lowe's. A chainsaw is an investment, by taking the few simple steps to maintain it, you ensure peak performance and a long service life. 14

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