Winterizing Supplies & Procedure 1999 Maristar 210 VRS, LTR 330 hp, EFI, MPI

Transcription

1 Winterizing Supplies & Procedure 1999 Maristar 210 VRS, LTR 330 hp, EFI, MPI SUPPLIES/PARTS/TOOLS Supplies: Sta-Bil Fuel stabilizer (1 oz/2.5 gals); 45 gal tank = 18 oz. +/- 6 qts. engine oil (Pennzoil Marine 15w40 or 20 w50, API Service SJ/CG4 Racing oil). Oil Filter (Pennzoil PZ3 or PF25, Napa Gold 1069). Fogging Oil (the kind that produces white/gray smoke) 5 qts transmission fluid (Pennzoil Type A Dexron II, III or Dexron/Mercon). Impeller-Indmar GM 351, Johnson 608 crank driven (DIM Website Item #0714) Corrosion Protectant Spray (Pennzoil Marine Z-M Corrosion Protectant, Marvel Mystery Oil, West Marine Engine Protectant) Optional: RV Antifreeze (50/50 propylene glycol - environmentally friendly antifreeze. Capacities: Oil with filter change: 5.5 quarts Transmission oil: 4.4 quarts Tools: 5 section of garden hose with shut-off ball-valve 7/8 wrench-remove knock sensor Screw driver-flat blade-remove hose clamps Impeller puller Shop or paper towels Oil vacuum extractor Misc. Parts List: 8 Spark Plugs (AC Delco MR43LTS); Gap 0.045, 1.1mm. Alternator Belt All 5.7 Liter except LS1 - Indmar Thermostat Raw water cooled - Indmar Teak Oil: Deks Olje (pronounced olay) #1 Matte Finish; Star Brite Golden Teak Oil Page 1 of 5

2 A. Engine Winterization Procedure. 1) Fuel Stabilizer. Add fuel stabilizer to fuel (do this first so fuel in fuel lines and carburetor is stabilized). 2) Prepare the raw water intake hose. a) Remove the two hose clamps on the hose that connects to the brass thru-hull intake and slide them back on the water intake hose. b) Position raw water intake hose and insert about 18 inches of the garden hose extension with shut-off ball valve which has been connected to water source. Insure shut-off valve is in the off position and turn on the water source. 3) Change engine oil. a) Open shut-off valve so water flows into the raw water intake hose (not much flow is required). b) Start the engine. c) Run engine to normal operating temperature for minimum of 15 minutes (140 to 160), this insures the Sta-Bil reaches all of the fuel lines, injectors, etc. DO NOT EXCEED IDLE ( rpm). d) Shut-off the engine and turn off water supply at shut-off ball valve. e) Drain engine oil (use oil vacuum pump, place oil extension hose out off rear bilge drain hole). f) Remove engine oil filter (use 1 gallon freezer zip lock bag so oil in oil filter drains into zip lock bag). g) Install new oil filter. Fill new oil filter with ½ with new oil, use finger in some oil to put a thin layer of oil on the o-ring on new filter and hand tighten plus ¼ of a turn. h) Add 4-5 quarts of new engine oil through the valve cover removable cap. Confirm proper oil level with dip stick. DO NOT OVERFILL. 4) Change Transmission fluid. a) Unscrew the red transmission fluid dip stick. b) Using vacuum pump, extract as much transmission fluid as possible. c) Note the amount of used transmission fluid removed and replace with exact amount (specs call for 4.4 quarts or 4.16 liters). Note color and odor of used transmission fluid (if dark brown/red or a nutty odor could mean overheat, water in transmission, leak in transmission cooler core, or other issues. d) Add new transmission fluid and replace transmission dip stick screw cap. Confirm proper transmission oil level with dip stick. DO NOT OVERFILL. Page 2 of 5

3 5) Engine Fogging. a) This will be the last time the engine is run. b) Open water flow by opening the shut-off ball valve. c) Start the engine and let it run at idle speed. d) Remove the flame arrestor by removing the large hose clamp at the end of the intake manifold. e) Begin squirting the fogging oil into the intake manifold throttle plate (small hole on plate) continuously until white/gray smoke comes out of the exhaust (for about 10 to 15 seconds or 1/3 of the can). The engine will run roughly but keep squirting till you see the smoke. f) Turn off engine and water supply. g) Check for oil leaks and check engine and transmission oil level at dip stick, adjust as necessary. h) Clean the flame arrestor with carb or parts cleaner, dry well and reinstall. 6) Draining the Manifolds. a) At the end of each exhaust manifold there is a 1 diameter hose which connects to a yellow quick disconnect. b) Disconnect the quick disconnect and allow the water to drain into the bilge and leave quick disconnect disconnected until summarization. 7) Draining the Engine Block. a) Keep the raw water intake hose disconnected from the raw water intake through hull connection until summarization. Put the two hose clamps in zip lock bag. b) Remove the raw water intake hose from the impeller. Put hose clamp in zip lock bag. c) Remove the water hose to the bottom of the transmission cooler and place hose clamp in zip lock bag for summarization. d) Remove the remaining water hose on the impeller housing and place hose clamp in zip lock bag for summarization. e) Check the screen on the bottom of the transmission cooler for debris. f) Remove the water hose from the water pump output hose by removing the hose clamp. Put hose clamp in zip lock bag. g) Disconnect the neutral safety switch (so engine will not start) and crank the engine over very quickly (less than 5 seconds). This will remove water from the upper engine cooling system and pumps. h) Drain the water from both sides of engine block, both exhaust manifolds. (i) Remove engine block petcock drain valve and let water drain into the bilge. (ii) Using a coat hanger, poke around and remove any obstruction in the block. Page 3 of 5

4 (iii)replace petcock drain valve (use anti-seize or wrap with teflon tape to make removal easier). (iv) Remove the knock sensor on the starboard side of the engine block by removing the electrical connector to the knock sensor, and then carefully remove the knock sensor with the 7/8 wrench and let the water drain out. (v) Using a coat hanger, poke around and remove any obstruction in the block. 8) Remove Impeller. a) Unscrew the four brass screws on the raw water impeller housing and remove brass cover plate and gasket. b) Remove the raw water pump impeller by using the impeller puller. c) Lightly use Vaseline on the impeller shaft. d) Place screws, gasket and plate and lube old impeller with Vaseline and place all in zip lock bag and the old impeller is now a spare. e) Don t install new impeller and gasket until summarization. At summarization, lube up the new impeller with dish soap to make it easy to install. 9) Drain Heater Core. a) Remove the 1 diameter hose (input hose to heater core) from the barbed fitting at the engine block (same side as oil filter). Close the valve. b) Remove the 1 diameter hose (output hose from heater core) from the water circulating pump. c) Blow air (about 10 psi) in the input hose and blow the water out of the heater core which should drain from the outlet hose into the bilge. d) Leave the hoses disconnected until summarization and put hose clamps into zip lock bag. 10) Antifreeze Procedure (Optional and during engine fogging (Step 5 above). a) Put 4 gallons of 50/50 propylene glycol (environmentally friendly, generally pink) antifreeze in a 5 gallon bucket. Disconnect exhaust hoses from manifolds and plug one of the manifolds with a stopper. Put a hose from the other into the bucket, and then put a hose from the bucket to the inlet of the transmission cooler. (you re basically creating a loop where the antifreeze is being recirculated from the bucket, into the engine, and back into the bucket). b) Run the engine until it gets to operating temperature ( F). Run a couple minutes at temp to ensure coolant gets through the engine and the thermostat is in the full open position (if less that 140, the thermostat will remain closed and antifreeze will not fill engine cooling system). c) Stop engine & reconnect exhaust hoses to exhaust manifolds, but leave the intake hose in the bucket. d) Follow engine fogging procedure. Start engine and run it until ~ 2 inches of antifreeze are left in the bucket. Page 4 of 5

5 11) Engine Protectant. a) Spray all susceptible engine parts with engine protectant (bare metal, electrical connections, etc ). 12) Misc. Stuff. a) Loosen alternator belt to relieve tension. b) Lubricate rudder zirk fittings (two on the rudder stuffing box) and steering linkages. c) Tie zip lock bag with all the part to steering wheel for summarization. d) Remove battery and trickle charge once a month. e) Wash and wax boat. f) Clean vinyl and apply 303. g) Put boat cover. h) Tape down the exhaust flaps (keep critters out). B. Trailer Winterization. 1) Top off master cylinder with brake fluid. 2) Spray corrosion protectant on disc brake rotors. 3) Flush brake fluid master cylinder and brake lines every 2-3 years. 4) Fill bearing buddy s with grease. 5) Jack trailer off ground using jack stands to relieve pressure on sidewalls of tires, if possible. If not, over inflate tire pressure by 25% (recommended at Page 5 of 5