3 Living with an MGA. Pressed-steel wheels were fitted as standard, wire wheels were an optional extra. (Courtesy Roger Brace)

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Felicity Nichols
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3 Living with an MGA will you get along together? The MGA was produced by the MG division of the British Motor Corporation (BMC) between 1955 and 1962.

From the first car off the production line to the last Mark II the MGA has been a sports car designed to provide unlimited enjoyment to its owner.

1 3 Living with an MGA will you get along together? The MGA was produced by the MG division of the British Motor Corporation (BMC) between 1955 and Made at the MG factory in Abingdon, England, it replaced the previous T types, and was the first MG fitted with the B-series engine. From the first car off the production line to the last Mark II the MGA has been a sports car designed to provide unlimited enjoyment to its owner. In terms of motorsport, the MGA was first seen at Le Mans in 1955, but MGAs can still be seen competing at race meetings worldwide. The MGA was succeeded by the MGB. Your choice All MGAs are fun to drive, offering the privilege of sharing in a timeless classic. Described in the original publicity as... the first of the new line, MGAs were the most popular sports car ever produced until the 1960s. The look and style of the MGA is always admired, reflecting the model s distinctive, streamlined postwar design. Over 100,000 MGA sports cars were produced. The majority of these were 1600 roadsters, and around 90% of all the cars produced were exported. When current, the MGA deserved the MG marketing slogan Safety Fast. The roadster is generally the most popular model, while the Twin Cam is an absolute rarity. Despite coupés being less common than roadsters, they now have a lower valuation. Pressed-steel wheels were fitted as standard, wire wheels were an optional extra. (Courtesy Roger Brace) Performance The B-series four-cylinder engine drives the rear wheels via a four-speed gearbox and propshaft. Coil spring suspension is found at the front of the car with semielliptic leaf springs at the rear, together with a live axle. The chassis design allows the seats to be located within the side rails, A very unusual colour for an MGA (Courtesy John Hancock) positioning the driver and passenger low in the car and providing a low centre of gravity which improves the handling. All MGAs will perform well in today s traffic, and the 1600cc model will reach a top speed of 100mph and deliver a 0-60mph in just over 15 seconds. The front drum brakes of early models were soon changed to discs, providing good braking, while the Twin Cam has excellent four-wheel disc braking. The top speed of the coupé is slightly less than the roadster, but the Twin Cam provides a thrilling potential top speed of 115mph, and will compete with today s hot hatches. 8

Restoration Does the car require some work or total restoration; do you have the time and money to carry this out?

2 8 Key points where to look for problems Which model? Are you looking for a roadster or a coupé, and is this the model you really want? The engine size varies from 1489cc, 1588cc to 1622cc, and the Twin Cam which is 1588cc. Restoration Does the car require some work or total restoration; do you have the time and money to carry this out? Originality Finding an original car that has not been restored is very unlikely; how important is originality, and are you looking for concours condition? Bodywork Remember that rust is the number one enemy and the most expensive to repair, and is often considerably more serious than superficial examination reveals. Panel fit and paint finish can also be expensive to correct. Mechanicals Is the car roadworthy and what is the general condition of the engine? Whilst mechanical repairs usually cost less than bodywork restoration, are they reflected in the price? The paint finish on these cars is good, but the car on the right is not an original colour. Also note the different sidelights for the Twin Cam and The gap between panels should be uniform, but this is difficult to achieve when fitting new panels.

The left side front suspension on a Twin Cam. Check for slack when the car is on the hoist/ramp. centred rubber bushes or, alternatively, polyurethane bushed.

A single bounce indicates that the particular shock absorber is working correctly, but more bounces indicate wear. A road test will help to reveal the true condition of the shock absorbers.

If there is more movement, check whether it is caused by wear in: The wheel bearings this can mean expensive work. The swivel pins this can also mean expensive work.

3 The left side front suspension on a Twin Cam. Check for slack when the car is on the hoist/ramp. centred rubber bushes or, alternatively, polyurethane bushed. By pushing each corner of the car down, letting go and watching the recovery you can get a good idea of the condition of the shock absorber (damper). A single bounce indicates that the particular shock absorber is working correctly, but more bounces indicate wear. A road test will help to reveal the true condition of the shock absorbers. Hold the top and bottom of each front wheel and rock it back and forth there should be only slight detectable movement. If there is more movement, check whether it is caused by wear in: The wheel bearings this can mean expensive work. The swivel pins this can also mean expensive work. The lower wishbones, either at the pivot at the outer end or by deterioration of the rubber bushes. The shock absorber, either in the damping mechanism or in the pivot for the upper swivel link. The hub splines (wire wheel cars) or in the pegs of the Twin Cam and Deluxe cars. Wear in the hub splines is fairly common and will involve obtaining new stub axles or wheels, or both. This is expensive and needs to be factored into the cost of buying the car. Wear in the pegs on the Twin Cam wheels is rare, but note that original wheels are very difficult to find. However, substitute alloy lookalikes are available. Look closely at the grease nipples on suspension components: clean ones give a good indication that the suspension is regularly maintained and greased. Steering The steering is precise direct acting rack and pinion. Check the following: The operation of the rack and pinion. You should just hear the steering rack working, but it should not sound rough and there should not be a clunk as the lock is reversed. The steering rack gaiters (boots) for splits. The rubber of the gaiters (boots) should be flexible with no tears or cracks. There is residual grease on this steering rack nipple. In fact, the rack should be filled with EP90 oil, not grease. 31

However, unlike the MGB and Midget, you cannot buy a ready-painted Heritage shell with the fitting gaps correctly set.

4 13 Do you really want to restore? it ll take longer & cost more than you think Having a separate chassis and panels that bolt are features which make the MGA suitable for the enthusiast with time on their hands to restore. However, unlike the MGB and Midget, you cannot buy a ready-painted Heritage shell with the fitting gaps correctly set. On an MGA it is difficult to make the panels and piping between the panels fit perfectly, but if you do succeed you will feel immensely proud of your car, as it will be much admired. However, before you even think about restoring a car, the first vital step is to discuss the implications with your partner. Unless you have experience in car restoration the many hours you will spend in the garage may well run over years, so you need an understanding partner with the patience of a saint. You will also need, ideally, a double garage with power and light and a good selection of power and hand tools. It is best to avoid painting the car yourself unless you have plenty of time, but if you decide to do so then you will need a compressor with moisture extraction. So, if you are a glutton for punishment, and finally decide to restore, then try to source a car that looks shabby, with straight undamaged panels free from filler and with only light surface rust, but which has the correct panel fit. Select carefully as cars are always worse underneath than they appear on the surface. Avoid cars that need work on the chassis and/or the A- and B-posts, unless they are of particular historical interest. Your best sources of solid cars are the dry states of the USA, Australia or South This Twin Cam looks suitable for restoration. (Courtesy Ian Prior) Still a long way to go before the chassis can be de-rusted and painted. Africa. There are parts available to convert a left hand drive car to right drive, or viceversa. Assume that you will have to replace both the inner and outer sills (rockers) and carefully mark the exact positions of each front and rear wing. This will help you 49

15 Problems due to lack of use like their owners, MGAs need exercise Cars, like humans, are at their most efficient if they exercise regularly.

Ideally, the vehicle should be kept in a dry atmosphere to avoid further rust. If possible, move the car forwards and backwards and apply the brakes several times to prevent seizure.

The tyre pressures should also be checked and, if it is intended to leave the vehicle for several months, the car should be lifted onto blocks or axle stands to prevent the tyres developing flat

5 15 Problems due to lack of use like their owners, MGAs need exercise Cars, like humans, are at their most efficient if they exercise regularly. A run of at least 10 miles, once a week, is recommended for classics. If this is not practicable then at least once a month, start the car and let the engine warm to its normal operating temperature. Ideally, the vehicle should be kept in a dry atmosphere to avoid further rust. If possible, move the car forwards and backwards and apply the brakes several times to prevent seizure. The handbrake and linkage can seize through lack of use, and should be well greased. The tyre pressures should also be checked and, if it is intended to leave the vehicle for several months, the car should be lifted onto blocks or axle stands to prevent the tyres developing flat spots or, in some cases, cracks or blisters which would mean new tyres are needed. In extreme circumstances engine components may have seized: the clutch may seize if the friction plate becomes stuck to the flywheel because of corrosion. Pistons can also seize in their bores due to corrosion, a problem which may require a complete engine strip down. Old engine oil may be acidic and can corrode bearings. Uninhibited coolant can corrode internal waterways and, in low temperatures the lack of antifreeze can cause core (Welch) plugs to be pushed out, even producing cracks in the block or head. Silt settling and solidifying can cause overheating. Brake fluid absorbs water from the atmosphere and should be renewed every two years. Old fluid with high water content can cause corrosion-making This battery looks lifeless, and there s corrosion around the battery box. Drum brakes are likely to seize if unused for a long time. This tyre wall is severely cracked and the tyre needs replacing. 53

1 Is it the right car for you?

1 Is it the right car for you? marriage guidance Tall and short drivers Plenty of headroom and seat adjustment, even for very tall drivers. Weight of controls Escorts are loved for their precise controls