69-74 VW Beetle IRS Rear Kit Part No

Transcription

1 VW Beetle IRS Rear Kit Part No MN-476 (01102) ECN 3455 Please read these instructions completely before proceeding with installation A C B E D AA F F ITEM QTY. PART NAME A 2 Air Sleeve B 1 Left Upper Bracket C 1 Right Upper Bracket D 1 Left Lower Bracket E 1 Right Lower Bracket F 2 Support Bracket G 2 Shock Absorber H 2 Outer Bushing I 2 Inner Bushing J 2 1 /2"-13 x 1.5" HHCS K 2 1 /2" Flat Washer, SAE Hardware List: ITEM QTY. PART NAME L 2 3 /4"-16 Nylon Nut M 2 90 Elbow Fitting N 6 3 /8"-16 x 1" HHCS O 6 3 /8"-16 Nylock Nut P 4 3 /8" Large Flat Washer Q 12 3 /8" Flat Washer, USS R 2 3 /8" Flat Washer, SAE S 2 M8.0 x 1.0 Nylock Nut T 6 M12.0 x HHCS U 6 M12.0 x 1.5 Hex Nut ITEM QTY. PART NAME AA 16' Air Line Assembly BB 12 Tie Strap CC 2 Valve Cap DD 2 5 /16" Flat Washer EE 2 Rubber Washer FF 2 Star Washer GG 4 5 /16" Hex Nut HH 1 Tee Union II 2 2" Grommet Material 1

2 NOTE: This vehicle was set up with a 2" drop. Total drop is the same. I Getting Started Remove bumper mounting plate 1. Loosen the rear wheel lug bolts and raise the rear of the vehicle. Place it securely on jack stands. 2. Remove the wheels. Figure 1 3. Disconnect the parking brake cables at the parking brake leveler. 4. Disconnect the shock at the lower and upper mounting locations. Save the attaching hardware, as it will be reused later to install the new supplied shock absorber. 5. Remove the rubber bumper (Figure 1) and cut off the mounting bracket. Figure 2 II Removing the Spring Plate NOTE: For maximum suspension lowering and to obtain full primary air ride support, removal of the torsion bar is necessary. See step 7 for specific instructions regarding torsion bar removal. 1. Mark the spring plate position in relation to the diagonal arm on the top and bottom with a chisel (Figure 2). Figure 3 2. Remove the bolts securing the spring plate cover (Figure 3) and remove the rubber bushing. Save the mounting hardware, as it will be reused. 3. Remove the bolts securing the spring plate to the diagonal arm (Figure 4). Support the rear arm. 3. CAUTION: The spring plate is under tremendous spring pressure. Do not place any part of your body under the spring plate while performing the next step, or any other time that the spring plate hub cover is removed and the spring plate is resting on it s stop. Figure 4 2

3 4. Place a floor jack under the end of the spring plate and raise it just until it comes off the stop. Lever the spring plate out and away from the vehicle using a prybar while simultaneously lowering the jack until the spring plate has reached the end of it s travel and the torsion bar is relaxed. Pull the spring plate off the torsion bar. 5. Remove the fender, or at least half of the front bolts (Figure 5). 6. Carefully slide the spring plate off and remove the grommets. Be careful not to bend the fender well if it is necessary to lift it out of the way. Figure 5 7. For Total Lowering, only: Pull the torsion bar out and mark the bar left and right because they are different in length. They will not be used now. 8. Using a 17mm allen wrench, remove the pivot bolt from the front end of the diagonal arm (Figure 6). Do not loose the spacer washers. They will be reused. 9. Lift the brake hub up and support the rear end out of the way. Figure 6 III Installing the New Bushings 1. Coat the new inner (I) and outer (H) rubber bushings with talcum powder to prevent the spring plate from turning them. NOTE: If a lubricant is applied to the bushing and spring plate, installation of the new bushings will be much easier. Use talcum powder or lithium grease designed for use on urethane only. Figure 7 2. Install the knobby bushing (I) to the inside of the torsion bar (Figure 7). ~1½" 3. Reinstall the spring plate using old hardware so that it is parallel with the ground. When installed correctly, the top of the spring plate should be approximately 1 1 /2 from the spring stop (Figure 8). 4. Install the smooth outer bushing (H) and spring plate cover with the old hardware. Tighten securely. Figure 8 3

4 IV Attaching the Lower bracket 1. Replace the diagonal arm at this time. Torque the allen bolt to 87 ft-lbs. 2. Align the bolt hole in the spring plate, diagonal arm, and the lower air spring bracket. Attach all three together using new bolts (T), washers (Q), and nuts (U). Tighten finger tight at this time. Figure 9 3. Place the lower support bracket (F) to the back of the shock mount. Mark and drill a 3 /8 hole and bolt into place (Figure 9). 4. Place the air sleeve (A) on the lower bracket (D or E) and attach using the 1 /2" HHCS (J) and 1 /2" flat washer (K) (Figure 10). Tighten securely. 5. Align the chisel marks made earlier on the spring plate and diagonal arm. Torque to 80 to 87 ft-lbs (Figure 11). Figure 10 V Attaching the Upper Bracket 1. Place the upper bracket onto the air sleeve using the nylon nut and 90 elbow fitting. Tighten the nylon nut to 4 ft-lbs. Tighten the elbow fitting hand tight, plus 1 1 /2 turns. When tightening the elbow fitting be careful to tighten on the metal hex nut only. Set the upper bracket assembly into place (Figure 12). Figure 11 Air Fitting 2. CAUTION: Before drilling make sure that all hydraulic lines, gas lines, and electrical wires have been moved aside in the engine compartment. 3. Install the upper bracket. Nylon Nut a. Driver s side installation: With the upper bracket (B) place, center punch and drill one hole. Attach the upper bracket to the vehicle using bolt (N), washer (P), and nylock nut (O). Drill the remaining holes and attach using the bolts (N), washers (P), and nylock nuts (O). Tighten securely. Figure 12 4

5 b. Passenger s side installation: Use the two sway bar studs to mount the upper bracket (C). These studs line up with the two forward holes in the upper bracket. Attach using a nylock nut (S). Drill the remaining hole and finish attaching by using bolt (N), washer (P), and nylock nut (O). Tighten securely. VI Finishing the Installation 1. Install the new shock absorber (G) using the original mounting hardware. Tighten securely. 2. Reattach the parking brake cable and fender using the original hardware. 3. Inspect the entire installation and tighten all hardware securely. 4. Repeat all installation procedures for other side and return to Section VII to install the air lines. VII Installing the Air Lines NOTE: This system can be dual fill or single fill. 1. Choose a convenient location for mounting the inflation valves. Popular locations for the inflation valve are: a. The wheel well flanges. b. License plate recess in bumper. c. Through license plate itself. Good Tube Bad Tube 2. Drill a 5 /16 " hole to install the inflation valves. 3. Cut the air line assembly (AA) in two equal lengths. CAUTION: When cutting or trimming the air line, use a hose cutter (Air Lift P/N 10530), a razor blade or a sharp knife. A clean, square cut will ensure against leaks (Figure 13). Do not use wire cutters or scissors to cut the air line. These tools may flatten or crimp the air line, causing it to leak around the O-ring seal inside the elbow fitting. Figure Place a 5 /16" nut (GG) and a star washer (FF) on the air valve. Leave enough of the inflation valve in front of the nut to extend through the hole and have room for the rubber washer (EE), flat washer (DD), and 5 /16" nut (GG) and cap (CC). There should be enough valve exposed after installation - approximately 1 /2" - to easily apply a pressure gauge or an air chuck (Figure 14). Figure 14 5

6 5 /16" Nut Star Washer Vehicle Body or Bumper Rubber Washer Flat Washer 5. Push the inflation valve through the hole and use the rubber washer (EE), flat washer (DD), and another 5 /16 " nut (GG) to secure it in place (Figure 15). Tighten the nuts to secure the assembly in place. 6. Route the air line along the frame to the tee for a single fill or both mounting hole locations for dual fill lines. Figure 15 5 /16" Nut CAUTION: Keep at least 6" of clearance between the air line and heat sources, such as the exhaust pipes, muffler, or catalytic converter. Avoid sharp bends and edges. 7. Use the plastic tie straps (BB) to secure the air line to fixed, non-moving points along the chassis. Be sure that the tie straps are tight, but do not pinch the air line. Leave at least 2" of slack to allow for any movement that might pull on the air line. Figure Cut off air line leaving approximately 12" of extra air line and insert the air line into the air fitting. This is a push to connect fitting. Simply push the air line into the 90 swivel fitting until it bottoms out ( 9 /16" of air line should be in the fitting). Barbed Air Line Connection Valve Core 9. Inflate to 30 p.s.i. and spray all connections and the inflation valves with a solution of 1 /5 liquid dish soap and 4 /5 water to check for leaks. Leaks should be spotted easily by looking for bubbles in the soapy water. IMPORTANT: Check the air pressure again after 24 hours. A 2 to 4 p.s.i. loss after initial installation is normal. Retest for leaks if the loss is more than 5 lbs. Figure 17 VIII Fixing Leaks 1. If there is a problem with the inflation valve, then: a. Check the valve core by tightening it with a valve core tool. b. Check the air line connection (Figure 17) by removing the air line from the barbed type fitting. CAUTION: Do not cut it off. As this will usually nick the barb and render the fitting useless. Cut air line off a few inches in front of the fitting and use a pair of pliers or vise-grips to pull/ twist the air line off the fitting. 6

7 2. If there is a problem with the swivel fitting, then: a. Check the air line connection by deflating the sleeve and removing the line by pulling the collar against the fitting and pulling firmly on the air line. Trim 1" off the end of the air line. Be sure the cut is clean and square. Reinsert the air line into the push-to-connect fitting. b. Check the threaded connection by tightening the swivel fitting another 1 /2 turn. If it still leaks, deflate the air spring, remove the fitting, and re-coat the threads with thread sealant. Reinstall by hand tightening as much as possible, then use a wrench for an additional two turns. 3. If the preceding steps have not resolved the problem, call Air Lift Technical Service at for assistance. IX Troubleshooting Guide Problems maintaining air pressure, without on-board compressor. 1. Leak test the air line connections and threaded connection of the elbow into the air spring. See Section VIII to repair. 2. Leak test the inflation valve for leaks at the air line connection or dirt or debris in the valve core. See Section VIII for repair. 3. Inspect air lines to be sure it is not pinched. Tie straps may be too tight. Loosen or replace strap. Replace leaking components. 4. Inspect air line for holes and cracks. Replace as needed. 5. A kink or fold in the air line. Reroute as needed. You have now tested for all of the most probable leak conditions that can be easily fixed. At this point the problem is most likely a failed air spring - either a factory defect or an operating problem. Please call Air Lift at for assistance or a replacement air spring. 7

8 X Maintenance and Operation Minimum Pressure Maximum Pressure 10 p.s.i 100 p.s.i. Failure to maintain correct minimum pressure (or pressure proportional to load), bottoming out, overextension, or rubbing against another component will void the warranty. By following these steps, vehicle owners should obtain the longest life and best results from their air springs. 1. Check the air pressure in the air springs weekly. 2. Always maintain Ride Height. Never inflate beyond 100 p.s.i. 3. If you develop an air leak in the system, use a soapy water solution to check all air line connections and the inflation valve core before deflating and removing the air spring. 4. Always adjust the air pressure to maintain Ride Height. Increase or decrease pressure from the system as necessary to attain Ride Height for optimal ride and handling. 5. IMPORTANT: For your safety and to prevent possible damage to your vehicle, do not exceed Maximum Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR), as indicated by the vehicle manufacturer. Although your air sleeves are rated at a maximum inflation pressure of 100 p.s.i. The air pressure actually needed is dependant on your load and GVWR, which may be less than 100 p.s.i. Check your vehicle owners manual and do not exceed the maximum load listed for your vehicle. 6. Always add air to sleeves in small quantities, checking the pressure frequently. Air springs require less air volume than a tire and inflate quickly. 7. Should it become necessary to raise the vehicle by the frame or do any service work, make sure the system is at minimum pressure (10 p.s.i.) for safety and to reduce the tension on the suspension/brake components. 8 Thank you for purchasing Air Lift Products Mailing Address: Street Address: AIR LIFT COMPANY AIR LIFT COMPANY P.O. Box Snow Rd. Lansing, MI Lansing, MI Local Phone: (517) Fax: (517) For Technical Assistance call The Choice of the Professional Installer Printed in the USA