REPLACEMENT GEAR CHANGE CABLES Installation Guide

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1 Some sections are from the Lotus Service Manual V6: REPLACEMENT GEAR CHANGE CABLES Installation Guide For additional assistance, send questions by to Copyright 2013 lotusm100.com Do not copy or distribute without written permission The gear lever mechanism must be withdrawn into the car, in order to provide access to the cable rear abutment and permit cable replacement. Some feel it is helpful to pull a strong string or wire through the tunnel as you remove each cable to aid when inserting the replacement cables later in this instruction. You might have to clean up the square holes in the shift levers at the gearbox due to distortion from the original pins. You can click on any of the photos to see a larger version. Use the back button to return to the guide. Sorry that I couldn't get the pictures to all line up with the instructions. I wanted to make them big enough to see... If you are also installing a Short-Shift Kit, PLEASE read the installation addendum Download the PDF version of the guide Tools needed for this job: Straight and Phillips Screwdrivers Slip jaw and needle nose pliers 4, 6 & 8mm Metric Allen Wrenches 10, 11, 13 & 14 mm Box/Open Wrench 10 & 13mm Socket & Ratchet 14mm Deep Socket & Ratchet 7/16", 1/2" & 9/16" tools if metric is not available 15/16" (24mm) Short Wrench or Crows Foot Small, round Metal File Drain Basin for coolant All Hardware in the kit is Imperial not Metric Picture of Adapter Kit Contents Instruction Guides Use the back button to return to this menu Chapter 1: Preparing for cable replacement Chapter 2: Removing the original cables Chapter 3: Installing the new cables Chapter 4: Adjusting the cables Chapter 5: Completing the Project Exploded View of Shifter Exploded view of shifter end Exploded view of gearbox end Copy of the Factory Service Manual Sections For additional assistance, send questions by to cables@lotusm100.com

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3 Installation Addendum 1. The Short-Shift kit changes the position of the cable attaching pin on the Fore-Aft lever at the gearbox end. 2. The Crossgate cable connection remains the same as we modify the actuating pin location at the other end. Regular end with no Short-Shift 3. The Fore-Aft adapter moves the attaching pin closer to the pivot and the new position is over the bend in the original lever so there is no way to use a rod end with an included stud. End supplied with Short-Shift. 4. Normally, I supply BOTH gearbox cables ends with an included stud/spacer (see photo) but when you get the Short-Shift kit at the same time, I replace the rod end with a more "standard" end with only a hole. (see picture) 5. You will need to install the Short-Shift parts before you can adjust the shift cables since the Short-Shift's Fore-Aft adapter now has the stud/spacer already installed (and secured with loctite to prevent unthreading during use) Fore-Aft adapter with included stud/spacer installed 6. Once you have uninstalled the original shift cables, PLEASE install the Short-Shift kit next - before you install and adjust the new shift cables.

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5 Exploded View of the original cable parts in the Cockpit

6 Exploded View of the original cable parts at the gearbox

7 Engine Bay Preparation: 1. Open the bonnet (hood) as much as possible and support it with a suitable rod on the RIGHT (Off Side) side of the car. Do not attempt to use the normal prop rod as it will be in the way when you are working. 2. Protect the Near Side (Left) Wing (Fender) from scratching as you will be working over that area a lot. Remove belt buckles and anything else that can scratch. 3. Disconnect two plugs at the overflow tank bracket. Note location of spark plug wires at the coils and vacuum hoses at the vacuum solenoid valves, disconnect and move them out of the way. Clearing Access 4. Drain the coolant Click here for workshop manual description of draining and filling the coolant and remove the coolant overflow bottle (without soaking the area where the coils are located). Remove the two electrical plugs from the overflow bottle bracket and remove the bracket. Push plugs out of the way. 5. Loosen the hose clamps / jubilee clips and remove the Charge Cooler Pipe and Hoses from the throttle body to the inner wing to give you room to work. Prepared (except for the water bottle) 6. Make sure you have adequate light to see what you are doing. Chapter 1: Getting Started Chapter 3: Cable-Installation-Guide

8 Old Cable Removal: Gearbox End: Exploded view of original cables at the gearbox Disconnect Cables: Spring Clips 1. Pull off the spring clips (Green Arrow) securing the two inner cables to the gearbox levers. 2. Remove the spring clips or "E" clips (Yellow Arrow) securing the adjuster sleeves to the abutment bracket. NOTE: It is possible to have either of two different clips as Lotus changed mid-production 3. Release the cables from the gearbox and withdraw them from the abutment bracket. Removing "E" Clips 4. Remove the two pins that connected the original cables. This is a tight, hard to reach location and might be better trying from below with a long extension and a flex joint at the socket. You might need to use a wrench to break the nuts loose. 5. Remove the two bolts and washers securing the abutment bracket to the gearbox housing. Retain the bolts and washers and put aside the abutment bracket as you will be installing a different bracket shortly. Remove Cable Pins Cable Clip Types Cockpit end: See the Exploded Views links on right Abutment Bracket Gear Knob: 1. To remove the Gear Knob, push down the top of the gaiter from its location groove in the underside of the knob, and slacken the grub screw exposed. See picture. 2. Turn the knob counterclockwise to unscrew from the gear lever. Centre Tunnel Console & Trim Gaiter: 1. Remove the filler panel from between the rear of the centre tunnel console and Gear Knob

9 the rear wall, by releasing the single retaining screw. 2. Pull out and disconnect the mirror control switch, to the rear of the gear lever. 3. Pull out and disconnect the two window switches, each side of the parking brake lever, and release the two console front fixing screws via the switch apertures. 4. Pull out the oddments tray from the rear of the tunnel top, and release the two console rear fixings via the tray aperture. Pull the console to the rear to disengage the tongues from the main fascia, and then lift the console over the parking brake lever. Exploded View of Shifter details Exploded view of original cables in the cockpit. Exploded View of original cables at gearbox 5. Remove the gear lever gaiter over the lever. Lower Gaiter & Gear Change Mechanism: 1. Remove the four button head screws securing the lower gaiter assembly and gear change mechanism to the chassis. 2. Pull the lower gaiter assembly up and off the gearlever and withdraw the lever assembly from the chassis aperture complete with the cables. 3. Do not misplace the alloy spacer sleeves from each of the gearlever assembly rubber mountings. You will need them when you reassemble the car. Gear Change Cables: Identifying Cables 1. Release the crossgate cable from the gearlever bell crank by removing the spring clip and washer. 2. Disconnect the Fore-Aft cable by removing the retaining nut. 3. Pull off the spring clip securing each of the outer cables to the gearlever bracket. 4. Remove the 6mm pin from the crossgate bell crank. This is done by holding the lever over a deep socket (head into the socket) and hitting it with a hammer. It will pop out easily as it is only held in place by a few light tack welds. If necessary, use the small round file to make sure the 1/4" x 1" button head socket cap screw will fit through the hole. Remember which bell crank is the one for the crossgate cable. See pictures for details. Pin removal Chapter 1: Preparing for cable replacement Chapter 3: Installing the new cables

10 Installation Process: It is impossible to provide pictures of this process. Patience is needed and help from an assistant IS extremely helpful This is a good time to have a helper available There are several ways to install the cables: You can try to use a string or wire to help pull the cable through the tunnel. I have found it just as easy to feed the cables by hand reaching through the gearlever opening in the tunnel. See my note below on using simple tubes or sleeves to help. One way to install them is to assemble BOTH cables in the gearlever right away and feed BOTH cables into the tunnel simultaneously and reaching in, guide the cables through the small opening into the engine bay to get the cables to the gearbox. My helper prefers this method because he has slender arms and can reach deeply into the tunnel and guide the cables through the small opening leading into the engine bay. I have FAT arms, so I prefer the "single cable procedure" by inserting the Fore-Aft cable into the tunnel and guiding it by hand through the small opening into the engine bay and let it lay on the floor of the tunnel while I assemble the Crossgate cable to the Gearlever and feed that cable through the opening and pushing it well into the engine compartment. Once the Crossgate cable is in the engine bay, I assemble the Fore-Aft cable to the Gearlever. Getting the spring clip or E Clip installed is a bit of a struggle but it is less of a struggle (for me) than getting BOTH cables through the small opening leading into the engine bay at the same time. I leave it to your own decision which method to employ. If you choose to do both cables together, just follow the Gearlever assembly sequences from the appropriate paragraphs. Process notes: The cables fit and work best if the Fore-Aft (colored band) cable is the bottom cable going past the rear engine mount. The cables need to get through the tunnel, past the rear engine mount and through the bulkhead opening in the tunnel. I refer to this as the "small opening into the engine bay". Tunnel obstructions Shifter end view Tunnel obstructions Engine end view Both cables assembled at Gearlever Each cable end as assembled (in case someone disassembles)

11 Using a Cable Sleeve to make insertion easier: I have been installing test cables for quite a while now and find the gearbox end of each cable has a lot of pieces that can get hooked on the rear engine mount and the bulkhead sides as you are pushing them into the engine bay. I have been making a "sleeve" from heavy "construction" paper to slip over the cable end and it minimizes the issue of getting "hooked" on the body during the insertion process. Nothing sophisticated, it just helps with the process. This is just a suggestion, not required. Gearbox end both ends (if cables only) Gearbox Fore-Aft end (if Short-Shift Kit) Crossgate Gearlever End Fore-Aft Gearlever End Sleeves to help pass the cables through the tunnel's small hole into the engine bay Thick Lock Washer placement "E" Clip Installation The "E" Clip should face this way - Concave toward the abutment Fore-Aft Being Inserted Assemble and install the Gearlever End:

12 One cable at a time If you have chosen to insert BOTH cables at one time, follow the "assemble" sections in paragraphs 3, 4 and 6 and then follow similar paragraphs 2 and 10 to insert them through the tunnel and into the engine bay. Assemble the Crossgate in Gearlever Gearlever End: 1. Identify the new Fore-Aft Cable - It is the SHORTEST of the two cables and has the colored band at both ends. The end with the blue stepped adapter and the screw and nut through the rod end goes toward the shift levers. Crossgate Inserted 2. Push it into the tunnel and by reaching through the gearlever hole, guide it through the small opening into the engine bay (that is toward the right side and bottom of the tunnel). Make sure you put the end with the two large nuts facing toward the engine bay. Let if lay on the tunnel floor for now. If you used a sleeve to help with the cable insertion, remove it now (probably easier from under the car) so it doesn't block the path for the next cable. 3. Assemble the Crossgate Cable (without the colored band) through the appropriate hole in the gearlever assembly and using the 1/4" x 1" button head socket cap screw: Go thru the hole (toward the outside), add one thick lock washer, the rod end, the other thick lock washer and the 1/4" thin nylon lock nut to secure the rod end to the Crossgate lever. See the Thick lock washer placement picture for the correct assembly of the adapter and the thick lock washer. Assemble the Fore-Aft in Gearlever 4. Fix the stepped adapter in place by installing the previously removed spring clip or E Clip (step 2 of Gearbox end above) using your fingers or a pair of pliers as necessary. If it is an "E" clip, make sure that the concave side faces the bracket and the clip seats fully with the upper tang in the groove. 5. Push the gearbox end of the Crossgate Cable into the tunnel and guide it into the engine bay as described in paragraph 2. Push the Gearlever assembly as close to the opening in the tunnel so you can now assemble the Fore-Aft cable to the gearlever assembly. 6. Assemble the Fore-Aft cable in the gearlever assembly by passing the rod end of the cable thru the appropriate hole in the abutment bracket. Install the rod end to the bell crank using the 1/4" x 1 1/2" button head socket cap screw with the components in this order: bell crank, blue adapter, rod end, thick lock washer and the thin 1/4" nylon lock nut to attach it to the Fore-Aft lever. 7. See the Thick lock washer placement pictures for the correct assembly of the thick lock washers. A reminder of where the cables go 8. As in step 4 (above), install the spring clip or "E" clip making sure that the concave side faces the bracket and the upper tang is seated. If you used a sleeve to help with the second cable insertion, remove it now. 9. While pushing the cables more and having your helper pull and guide them from the engine bay toward the firewall and gearbox, pass the lever assembly through the tunnel hole to allow the cables to fully enter the engine bay. You will need to "help" them clear the engine bay obstructions and they will most likely hit the engine, starter and anything else that they can run into. This will require either you or your assistant to reach between the engine and firewall and guide them toward the gearbox while you push from inside the cockpit. If you don't have any help, this will require a lot of going to and fro between the gearlever in the cockpit and the engine bay. Definitely a task made Shifter temp hold - I used regular bolts

13 easier with some help. 10. Slide the shifter assembly completely into the opening. Holding the shift lever in the full 2nd gear position makes it easier. Again, guiding the cables in the engine bay will be required. 11. Install the NEW abutment bracket to the gearbox using the previously retained bolts and washers plus the additional bolt and washer in the kit. If you are also installing a Short-Shift Kit, two of the bracket's mounting holes will be elongated. Before tightening the bracket make sure it is rotated clockwise (looking from above) as far as it will go. This will help to better align the cables to the modified gearbox attachment points. If you are NOT installing a Short-Shift Kit, the bracket will not have elongated holes so it can be tightened right away. Gearbox End: 1. Pull the cables fully into the engine bay, feeding them up toward the abutment bracket. 2. Once the cables are in the engine bay and basically ready to install in the abutment bracket, use the original mounting bolts to secure the shift lever assembly on the tunnel. The housing will want to be low at the front and high at the rear but you can "push" it into place without "too much" muscle. Waiting until the cables are attached at the abutment bracket might make it harder to align the location and holes. New Bracket installed Remember, the shifter gaiter and housing are held down by the same bolts, so you might want to re-fit those parts now as well. I usually just bolt down the gearlever assembly until the project is finished and then go back and reassemble the area correctly. 3. Unthread the outermost large locknuts from each outer cable threaded end and pull one of the lock washers with the locknut up the cable and past the rubber cover. Try to avoid moving the inner locknut so the adjustment doesn't change. You might find it easier if you slide the rubber cover outboard as well. Remember to re-fit the rubber cover properly. I usually leave the covers pulled outboard when I ship the cables. See picture for clarification. Cables at the firewall Cover slid outboard 4. Using the slot at the top of each abutment hole, feed the Fore-Aft Cable through the rear / lower hole and the Crossgate Cable through the forward / upper hole. See the picture showing how the cables are fed into their respective holes. 5. Slide the washers and locknuts back to the outer housing thread and push the washers into place while threading the locknuts back on the cable's threaded end, trapping the abutment bracket between the washers and nuts. Tighten the nuts with the two short wrenches provided. Only turn the outermost nut since the inner nut should be in the correct position. The threaded end should be centered inside the abutment bracket. Reposition the rubber cover so it goes over the end of the threaded cable end. Feeding the cables into the bracket 6. If you are only installing cables: Pull the Crossgate Cable to the Crossgate Bellcrank and insert the rod end stud into the Bottom of the square hole, coaxing the blue adapter to go into the hole. If the hole is too tight, use the file to slightly enlarge the square hole until the adapter will go into the hole easily. Install the

14 5/16" flat washer and lock nut at the top and hold the stud above the blue adapter with a 7/16" or 11mm wrench while tightening the 1/2" / 13mm nut with a wrench or socket. Repeat this process for the Fore-Aft cable except you insert the rod end stud through the lever from the top. See pictures for clarity. 7. If you are also installing a Short-Shift Kit: Pull the Crossgate Cable to the Crossgate Bellcrank and insert the rod end stud into the Top of the square hole, coaxing the blue adapter to go into the hole. If the hole is too tight, use the file to slightly enlarge the square hole until the adapter will go into the hole easily. Install the 5/16" flat washer and lock nut from the bottom and hold the stud above the blue adapter with a 7/16" or 11mm wrench while tightening the 1/2" / 13mm nut with a wrench or socket. Remove the retaining screw in the pin at the top end of the Fore-Aft cable and put the rod end over the pin and reinstall the retaining screw. See pictures for clarity. 8. Although I have pre-installed the cable kits I am shipping, you might have to adjust the rod ends at the gearbox end so they are not twisted to either side. Just use a pair of 7/16" or 11mm wrenches and slack the jam nut a bit and rotate the rod end so it is parallel to the lever below it. Hold the rod end and tighten the jam nut. You might need to do it a couple of times as you get the "feel" for how much the rod end will twist even though you are holding it. Cover back in place Cables Installed Gearbox end close-up without Short-Shift Gearbox end close-up with Short-Shift Chapter 2: Removing the original cables Chapter 4: Adjusting the cables

15 Adjustment Process: 1. To adjust the cables, you need to put the gearbox into third gear. That means, the cross gate lever should be in the middle "notch" and the Fore-Aft lever should be to the left or "middle" of the car. 2. Check the position of the gear change lever. It should be slightly forward of center and in the "center" of the shift pattern (third gear). Some will like it more to the left and some will like it more to the right. 3. Adjust the left to right position of the gearlever (crossgate) by tightening the front nut and backing off the rear nut of the cross gate cable's threaded end to move the lever to the left or tightening the back nut and backing off the front nut to move the lever to the right. Linkage position for selecting third gear 4. Adjust the front to rear position of the gearlever (Fore-Aft) by tightening the front nut and backing off the rear nut of the Fore-Aft cable's threaded end to move the lever forward or tightening the back nut and backing off the front nut to move the lever backward. 5. When happy with the shift lever's position, tighten each of the cable's two locknuts starting with the rear nut by tightening it until it just touches the bracket. Repeat with the front nut. Starting with the rear nut, tighten it one flat and then tighten the front locknut one flat. Repeat this until the locknuts are securely tightened. This should keep the adjustment from shifting. Remember, the rear nut will tighten by rotating toward the front of the car and the front locknut will tighten by rotating toward the rear of the car. Adjust the cable by re-positioning these nuts Chapter 3: Installing the new cables Chapter 5: Completing the Project

16 Completing the Project! Gearbox End: 1. Make sure the cables are TIGHT. 2. Reinstall the coolant overflow bottle bracket, vacuum lines, spark plug wires, electrical plugs and finally the coolant overflow bottle. 3. Reinstall and tighten the Charge Cooler hoses and pipes. Shifter Exploded View 4. Make sure you have accounted for all of your tools and parts. 5. Refill the cooling system. Lower Gaiter & Gear Change Mechanism: 1. Remove the four button head screws installed to temporaryily hold the shift assembly during the cable insertion. 2. Make sure the alloy spacer sleeves for each of the gearlever assembly rubber mountings are installed. 3. Pull the lower gaiter assembly onto the gearlever. 4. Install the four button head screws to secure the lower gaiter assembly and gear change mechanism to the chassis. See the Shifter Exploded View. Centre Tunnel Console & Trim Gaiter: 1. Install the gear lever gaiter over the lever. 2. Install the filler panel from between the rear of the centre tunnel console and the rear wall, by inserting the single retaining screw. Shifter end Exploded View 3. Connect and insert the mirror control switch, at the rear of the gear lever. 4. Reinstall the two console front fixing screws via the two window switch apertures and connect and insert the two window switches on each side of the parking brake lever. 5. Lower the console over the parking brake lever and then push the console to the front to engage the tongues from the main fascia. Insert the oddments tray in the rear of the tunnel top, and secure the two console rear fixings via the tray aperture. Gear Lever Knob: 1. Turn the knob clockwise to screw onto the gear lever. 2. Tighten the exposed grub screw. 3. Pull up the top of the gaiter into its location groove in the underside of the knob. Finally:

17 1. Remove the covering from the Near Side (Left) Wing (Fender). 2. Remove the rod holding the bonnet (hood) 3. Road Test the installation. 4. Readjust the cables at the gearbox end as described previously if you want to tweak the shifter position. Chapter 4: Adjusting the cables Index: Cable-Installation-Guide - Page 1 Gearbox end Exploded View

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