PIKE DUAL AIR PICTORIAL INSTRUCTIONS. INSTRUCTIONS FOR INSTALLING ENDURO FORK SEALS AND CHANGING SEMI-BATH OIL in RockShox PIKE Dual Air Forks

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1 INSTRUCTIONS FOR INSTALLING ENDURO FORK SEALS AND CHANGING SEMI-BATH OIL in RockShox PIKE Dual Air Forks RECOMMENDED PARTS AND TOOLS -Bicycle work stand -Plastic bucket/drain pan -5mm Allen wrench -DH (downhill) tire lever or large flat-bladed screwdriver -Pocket screwdriver -10mm deep socket -Ratchet wrench -Torque wrench -Clean, lint-free rags -Multi-viscosity synthetic motor oil - Super-Slick Grease or PrepM -Oil syringe -Shock pump -Soft-blow mallet -Cable ties -Safety glasses -Protective gloves Photo 2007 David G. Clock. Used with permission. Note: To make the service procedure as easy as possible, these instructions have been designed for servicing the fork without completely removing it from the bicycle.

2 1) Secure your bicycle in a work stand, remove the front wheel, and place a large bucket underneath the fork. 2) Clean the exterior of the fork so as not to introduce contaminants into the fork during service. 3) Remove the front brake caliper and use tape or cable ties to carefully secure it out of the way.

3 4) Remove the rebound adjuster by pulling it straight down out of the fork leg. As with all the parts you remove during this service, set it aside in a safe location. 5) Use a 5mm Allen wrench to loosen the fixing bolt on the damper side of the fork. DO NOT FULLY RE- MOVE THE BOLT. Back the bolt out until about 4 threads are exposed Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com

4 6) On the air spring side, remove the negative air cap. 7) Use a 10mm deep socket to completely remove the fixing nut and crush washer. 8) INVERT the foot nut and thread it back onto the negative air shaft until it extends about 1mm below the bottom of the threaded shaft. 10) Use a small screwdriver to depress the Schrader valve and release the air from the negative chamber. Be prepared for oil! 2006 Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com

5 11) Remove the positive air cap. With your safety glasses on, use a small screwdriver to depress the Schrader valve and release the positive air. 12) Using a rubber or plasticfaced mallet, strike the foot nut on the air spring side up into the fork leg to break the shaft free. Expect significant oil drainage... 13) Repeat step 12 for the fixing bolt on the damper leg.

6 14) Remove the fixing bolt and and foot nut Real World Cycling/enduroforkseals.com 15) Pull the lower leg casting part way down off of the uppers. Support the bike by holding onto the upper crown with one hand, while pulling down on the arch of the lower casting with the other. If you have trouble getting them to slide down, try compressing them together by hand and then pulling them apart.

7 16) After the bulk of the oil has drained, pull the lowers completely off. You may want to set them aside, on top of a shop towel in an upright position as the rest of the oil drains. 17) Use a clean, lint-free towel to clean the stanchions tubes.

8 18) You may want to take this opportunity to slide an O-ring onto one of the stanchion tubes. This is useful for measuring sag and provides an indicator of how much travel you are using. Put it on the tube with printed travel settings on it, if applicable. 19) Please familiarize yourself with the following information: ROCKSHOX OE SEAL CONFIGURATION Dust Wiper Foam Ring Oil Seal (Note that some dirt has made it past the wiper lip) The RockShox OE system uses a foam ring between the wiper and the oil seal. (Note that this is different than the Fox system, which places a foam ring beneath the oil seal to assist with lubricating the bushings.) RockShox recommends periodically prying up the wipers and re-lubing the foam rings. We find this to be an unnecessary hassle and recommend treating the fork from the OUTSIDE, by using Stanchion Lube by Finish Line. For this reason, you will NOT be using a foam ring with the Enduro system.

9 20) Borrowing a tip from the RockShox techs, we find a DH tire lever to be ideally suited for seal removal. (A large screwdriver can also be used, but be careful not to scratch the seal head area with the edges of the blade) Place the lever firmly under the wiper and apply downward pressure on the handle to pop the wiper out. 21) Heat up the oil seals, as they tend to be difficult to break free. 22) Firmly placing the end of the DH lever between the bushing and the oil seal, pry out the oil seal. You may want to place a pad between the bottom of the DH lever and the fork lowers to protect the paint. REPEAT STEPS FOR THE OTHER SIDE

10 23) Lubricate the inside of the seal head and the outer edges of the new Enduro oil seal with Super-Slick Grease. The oil seal is installed with letters/numbers facing up (groove and garter spring facing down toward the oil) 24) Evenly start the oil seal into the seal head by hand. 25) Use a large, inverted socket to press the oil seal down to the bushing. It s important that the socket be very close to the OD of the seal so as not to distort it. Slowly apply even pressure.

11 Once the seal starts moving, it will quickly slide down until stopped by the bushing. 26) Apply a thin coat of Super-Slick Grease to the inside of the seal head and on the outer edge of the wiper. 27) Start the leading edge of the wiper into the seal head.

12 28) Use a large socket or piece of pipe that fits squarely on the shoulder/ flange of the wiper to push the wiper into the seal head. It should start by hand and press most of the way in as you apply body weight to the socket. If the wiper does not fully seal, put some padding under the lower use a rubber mallet to tap the wiper down (Be sure to properly pad the bottom of the leg casting). Note that there is a slight recess in the seal head that will accomodate part of the wiper flange. REPEAT STEPS FOR THE OTHER SIDE

13 29) Apply a generous amount of Super-Slick Grease to the concave areas inside of the oil seals and wipers. 30) Partially install the lowers back onto the upper tubes. Start the lowers over the rods and up to the stanchion tubes. Be sure the arch is facing the right way! Carefully work one wiper over its respective stanchion tube, then start the other wiper onto its stanchion. BE PATIENT. Getting both wipers started may take a few tries. If you force the process, you may damage the wipers or seals. Once the wipers are started evenly, carefully work the lowers up until the stanchions pass the seals and the bushings. DO NOT SLIDE THE LOWERS ALL THE WAY UP AT THIS TIME.

14 BEFORE CONTINUING, ORIENT THE FORK WITH THE LEGS IN A HOR- IZONTAL POSITION AND SECURE THE WORK STAND. 31) Inject 16cc of multi-viscosity fully synthetic motor oil into the bottom of each fork leg. When injecting the oil, don t push the end of the syringe fully into the casting hole. Rather, leave a small gap so the displaced air can escape as the oil goes in. Use a plastic extension tube to draw the oil out of the bottle. Then, remove the tube to inject the oil. The multi-viscosity, fully synthetic motor oil we chose to use is made by Amzoil. Any other reputable brand is acceptable. Note that RS recommends straight 15wt oil. This is OK, but the oil recommend sticks to the parts better and provides better performance.

15 32) Use a clean cloth to cover the holes in the bottom of the legs and slowly slide the lowers all the way up until the negative air shaft comes through on the air spring side and the damper rod threads can be seen on the damper side. 33) Grease the threads of the damper fixing bolt and install it. Torque to about 50 Inch Pounds.

16 34) Install the crush washer and foot nut on the air spring side. If you are re-using the crush washer (usually OK), be sure to install it in the same direction it came off. You can verify this by checking which way the crush washer fits into the foot nut. Thread the crush washer all the way onto the negative air shaft threads. Follow the crush washer with the foot nut and torque to about 50 Inch Pounds.

17 35) Use a shock pump to pressurize the positive chamber (top of the leg) and replace the positve air cap. Use the air pressure guide provided on this page. 36) Now use the shock pump to pressurize the negative chamber (bottom of the leg) and replace the negative air cap. RIDER WEIGHT + AIR - AIR <140 lb PSI PSI (<64 kg) lb PSI PSI (64-73 kg) lb PSI PSI (73-82 kg) lb PSI PSI (82-91 kg) >200 lb PSI PSI (>91 kg) These recommended pressures are for a PIKE Dual Air U-Turn. They are lower than RockShox recommends, but we have found the RS recommendations to be too high. If your PIKE is Dual Air, NON U-Turn, lower the above ranges by about 10 PSI. Start with equal positive and negative pressures.

18 37) Push the rebound knob up into the damper fixing bolt. It will snap securely into place. 38) Replace the front wheel. 39) Re-install the front brake caliper. A A) Apply fresh Loc-tite (blue) to the brake caliper mounting bolts.

19 C B) (not pictured) Route the cable in the correct path (usually on the inside of the leg) and place the caliper over the rotor. C) Partially tighten the caliper bolts until there is about a.5mm gap at the top and bottom. (You want the caliper to still have side-to-side play.) D D) Squeeze the front brake lever and hold it while performing Step E. E E) While maintaining the squeeze on the front brake lever, torque the caliper mounting bolts to Inch Pounds. Alternate between the bolts, tightening a little at a time.

20 40) Secure the brake cable with a cable tie. One method is to form a small loop around the cable itself before wrapping the tie around the arch and feeding the end of the tie through the locking head. Be sure that the cable tie is between the raised guides on the back side of the arch (red highlights in the picture). Hold the cable and loop in place while taking out the slack in the cable tie. When everything is correctly aligned, fully cinch the cable tie and trim the end off. If it doesn t come out right, just cut the cable tie and try again...

21 When done correctly, no additional cable ties are needed. The brake line will be secured in place and will be clear of the tire, spokes, and rotor. 41) Manually cycle the fork a few times to bring out the bulk of excess assembly lube. Wipe the stanchions clean, then repeat. During your first two or three rides, small rings of assembly lube will be present on the stanchion tubes. Just clean off the stanchions when you are through riding. When the rings no longer appear, we highly recommend periodic use of Stanchion Lube by Finish Line to keep your wipers and seals functioning at their smoothest.

22 42) Go have fun! For tuning tips and more information on the Pike s features, please check out our PIKE 454 Review.* Photo 2007 David G. Clock. Used with permission. *To read the review, visit enduroforkseals.com. Use the dropdown menu bar near the top of the page to navigate: >Extras >Reviews >PIKE 454

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