INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

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1 INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FORCE 10 SPORT R1 REAR DISC CONVERSION KIT A Chevrolet Silverado and GMC Sierra Thank you for choosing STAINLESS STEEL BRAKES CORPORATION for your braking needs. Pleases take the time to read and carefully follow these instructions to insure the ease of your installation as well as the proper performance of the complete system. Before beginning your installation, please verify you have received all the parts indicated on the packing slip. If you believe anything to be missing or incorrect, please call our Customer Service Department at To assure your installation will go safely and smoothly, have the following items on hand to assist you: JACK & JACK STANDS LUG WRENCH TORQUE WRENCH SOCKET SET BRAKE CLEANER WRENCH SET TUBE WRENCHES MALLET BRAKE FLUID These kits use the following pads: SSBC#: Revision 4 3/23/12 FMSI#: D-154 Stainless Steel Brakes Corporation Main Road Clarence, NY Phone: (800) (716) Fax: (716)

2 TIP: BEFORE BEGINNING INSTALLATION, SPRAY ALL FITTINGS & FASTENERS WITH PENETRATING OIL. 1) Drum Brake Removal a) Raise the vehicle until the tires and wheels clear the floor and support the vehicle on jack stands. Remove the tires and wheel assemblies from the drum. b) Pull the brake drums off the axle shafts. If the brake drum will not come off easily, retract the shoes by inserting a narrow screwdriver through the adjusting slot in the backing plate and back off the adjusting screw. c) Remove the brake shoes and all the hardware. d) Disconnect parking brake cable from the actuator and pull through the backing plate after compressing the retaining clip. e) Disconnect the rigid brake line from the back of the wheel cylinder. Always use a tube wrench on brake lines so not to strip the tube nut. 2) Removal of the Axles & Backing Plates a) Remove differential cover and drain all fluid into a drain pan. b) Remove pinion shaft lock bolt (7mm) and slide the pinion lock shaft out of the rearend housing. c) Push the axle shafts inward and remove the C locks from the ends of the axle shafts. d) Carefully pull the axle shafts out of the rearend being careful not to damage the axle bearings or seals. e) Remove the four bolts from the drum backing plates and remove the backing plates. 3) Installation of Caliper Mounting Brackets a) The lower caliper mounting brackets will bolt to the outside face of the axle housing flange. Secure using the bolts and lockwashers supplied and torque to 125 ft/lbs. The drivers side bracket should point towards the rear of the vehicle and the passenger side bracket should point towards the front. b) The upper caliper mounting brackets will bolt to the inboard side of the lower brackets. Secure using the bolts and lockwashers supplied. and torque to 125 ft/lbs. Install the parking brake L-bracket and 1/2 tube spacer onto the upper hole on the drivers side and the lower hole on the passenger side. c) Carefully slide the axleshafts back into the housing and reinstall the c-clips, pinion lock shaft and pinion lock bolt in the reverse of how they were removed. BE SURE TO INSTALL A NEW DIFFERENTIAL GASKET AND REFILL THE REAREND WITH THE PROPER GEAR OIL TO THE PROPER LEVEL. 4) Rotors a) Slide rotor onto axle shaft and temporarily secure using two lug nuts. The drivers side bracket should point towards the rear of the vehicle and the passenger side should point towards the front. 5) Preparation and Installation of calipers 1

3 NOTE: DO NOT ROTATE THE PARKING BRAKE LEVERS ON THE CALIPER AS IT WILL CAUSE THE PISTON TO ROTATE OUT AND THE CALIPER WILL NOT FIT OVER THE ROTOR. a) Install inboard brake pad. Inboard pads must lay flat against piston. b) Lubricate supplied caliper mounting bolts with silicone grease or other non-petroleum lubricant. c) Position the caliper assembly over the rotor and line up the holes in the caliper ears with the holes in the mounting bracket. d) Install mounting bolts, making sure that the ends of the bolts pass under the retaining ears on the inboard pad. Push bolts through to engage the bushings of the outboard caliper ears while at the same time threading the bolts into the mounting bracket. Torque bolts to ft/lbs. e) The drivers side parking brake lever will pull towards the front of the vehicle while the passenger side will pull towards the rear. Be sure calipers are installed on correct sides. The drivers side caliper should be on the backside of the axle while the passenger side caliper is on the front side of the axle. f) The original hard lines on the axle housing will be removed and replaced with the ones supplied. The longer line will be used for the passenger side and the short line will be for the drivers side. Bend the lines to follow the same path as the original lines. The lines will end near the bump stop plates on both sides of the axle. Use the original clamps to secure the lines. g) Connect the flex lines to the calipers using the hollow banjo bolts and copper washers supplied. Torque to ft/lbs. Be sure to install the plug and copper washer into the unused port of the calipers. Torque to 20 ft/lbs. h) Connect the other end of the flex lines to the new hard lines and tighten with a tube wrench. 6) Parking Brake Connection a) Slide the supplied parking brake cable spacers into the L-brackets. The threaded end of the spacer will point towards the calipers. Slide the parking brake cable through the spacers making sure the cable housing seats into the spacer. b) The split clamps and 1/4 bolts and nuts supplied will be installed onto the parking brake levers of the calipers and will secure the ball end of the parking brake cable (refer to the attached photos). It may be necessary to reposition the parking brake levers on the calipers (refer to the attached instructions). c) Slide the supplied return spring over the cable making sure the spring seats onto the end of the spacer. The other end of the spring will push up against the split cable clamp to help push the levers back when the parking brake is released. d) With the spring in place, slide the ball end of the cable through the split clamp and tighten the nyloc nut. Final adjustments can be made by adjusting the jamb nuts on the cable spacer. e) When adjusting the parking brake cables, be sure to make adjustments with the vehicle supported by the suspension, not the frame. This will help insure proper adjustment. Be sure to leave adequate slack so when the parking brake is released, the lever can fully return and there is no brake drag. 7) Filling and Bleeding system a) It is advisable to replace the brake fluid if the color is brown or muddy. This is due to water that has been absorbed by the fluid which will eventually corrode the brake lines and master cylinder. This absorbed moisture can also cause a vapor lock situation under extreme braking conditions. Flush system with clean brake fluid and replace 2

4 with a good grade of disc brake fluid. DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluids are acceptable. b) The simplest and most effective way to bleed your brakes is to use the gravity bleeding approach as follows: 1) With calipers installed, make sure all fittings are tight and master cylinder is topped off. 2) Open one bleeder screw at a time starting at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and working your way back around the wheel closest to the master. With bleeder screw open, observe bleeder. At first the fluid will begin to escape with intermittent air bubbles. When the air bubbles stop and a steady flow of fluid is observed for several seconds, close the bleeder valve and move on to the next wheel. MAKE SURE TO KEEP A CLOSE WATCH OVER THE FLUID LEVEL INSIDE THE MASTER CYLINDER DURING THE BLEEDING PROCESS. NEVER LET THE RESERVOIR RUN DRY. ALWAYS KEEP IT AT LEAST 1/3 FULL. 3) After bleeding both wheels and topping of the master cylinder make applications of the brake pedal. If a hard pedal is experienced, no further bleeding is required. If pedal is spongy, repeat bleeding process until a hard pedal is achieved. FINAL INSPECTION a) Once a hard pedal is achieved, all fittings and connections must be inspected to make sure there are no leaks. Also check the level in both reservoirs of the master cylinder and top off, if needed. b) Put wheels back on the car and turn wheel by hand to insure that the wheel spins freely and does not interfere with any brake components. If any interferences are detected, DO NOT drive vehicle until problem can be identified and corrected. c) When you are sure there are no interferences and the pedal is firm, torque the lug nuts and lower the car back onto the ground. Test drive the car and apply the brakes frequently to seat the pads. e) The rear brake pressure can be adjusted by turning the knob on the adjustable proportioning valve. It should be adjusted so the rear brakes do not lock up before the fronts. NOTE: DO NOT USE ANTI-SQUEAK ADHESIVE ON BACKS OF PADS. THIS WILL DEGRADE THE PERFORMANCE OF THE CALIPER! DO NOT DRIVE IN TRAFFIC UNTIL THE BRAKES SAFELY STOP THE CAR A SAFE DISTANCE WITHOUT A SPONGY PEDAL FEEL! BRAKING TESTS SHOULD ALWAYS BE DONE IN A SAFE OPEN AREA! NOTE: For frequently asked questions and technical reference information please visit the tech section of our website at TECH LINE -- If technical help is required, please call NOW ENJOY ULTIMATE STOPPING POWER!! 3

5 -Photo 1: For some applications, it may be necessary to change the position of the parking brake lever to allow connection of the brake cables. Photo 2: Using a 3/4" open end wrench, loosen and remove the retaining nut. 4

6 Photo 3: With the retaining nut removed, the parking brake return spring can be removed. Notice how the spring fits with the loop hooked onto the parking lever and the straight end pushed into the hole on the back of the caliper. Photo 4: The parking brake lever can now be removed from the stud. Rocking the lever up and down will help free the lever from the stud. 5

7 Photo 5: Install the lever in the new position, making sure the notches in the lever align with the hex shoulder of the stud. This insures the lever will turn the stud and not simply spin without engaging the parking brake. Photo 6: Reinstall the spring and retaining nut. Be sure to install the straight end of the spring into a hole in the back of the caliper; this will create spring tension as soon as the lever is moved. 6

8 Photo 7: Tighten the retaining nut with a 3/4" open end wrench while holding the parking brake lever. Photo 8: The caliper is now ready for installation. 7

9 Install the lower caliper mounting bracket onto the axle flange using the 12mm bolts and lockwashers supplied. Torque to 125 ft/lbs. Install the upper mounting bracket onto the inboard side of the lower bracket using the 12mm bolts and lockwashers supplied. Torque to 125 ft/lbs. 9

10 Slide the rotor onto the axle shaft and secure with at least on lug nut. Slide the caliper into position over the rotor and secure with the slider bolts supplied. Torque to ft./lbs. 10

11 Proper installation of parking brake L-bracket and spacer. 11

12 C L WHEEL MOUNTING SURFACE DIMENSIONS ARE IN INCHES TEMPLATE NO. T-056 DO NOT SCALE DRAWING SSBC STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE CORP. CLARENCE, NEW YORK Ph: / ~ Fx: REV

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