2510 E Sunset Rd Suite #3 Las Vegas, NV Phone (702) or Fax (702) Mustang Depot all rights reserved

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1 1 Thank you for purchasing the Mustang Depot E Body Kit! This new kit has evolved through a careful process of improving fitment and overall quality over the last 8 years. The current manufacturer, FSI now produces this third generation kit for 1967 and 1968 Fastbacks, Coupes and Convertibles. (Fastback show below) We offer everything to complete your car from head to toe and down to the last bolt! Any questions, comments or concerns can be directed to tech@mustangdepot.com or by calling our direct line show below. While this kit is manufactured under strict standards, every car is different and can impose different challenges when fitting the parts. While we recognize there a several methods for installing these parts, we have found the methods contained in these instructions are a good starting point for you to install your body kit. The car itself has over 40 years of history and can impose problems with some of the methods below. This is consequential to working on classic cars and extra material is present on the parts to allow for variances between cars. Also, there are several considerations that should be considered prior to the install of the panels including if your going with functional side exhaust and fender lip rolling for wider tires. Mustang Depot was involved in the development process of this kit, and fitting these parts on various cars. So we have direct experience to assist you in installing these parts. We have a hand full of tips and tricks to minimize the overall install time. So you can rest assured that continual efforts are in place to provide our customers with a quality kit you can rely on for years to come. We highly recommend using Norton Speed Grip for the bonding portions of the install Click Here

2 2 1. Sand area flat where hood hinges meet the underside of the hood. Mount the hood to the hinges using the original bolts. Leave bolts slightly loose for movement on hinges to align. Make adjustments to the hinges at the fender apron as necessary. Enlarging the hinge holes may be necessary. These hoods are far thicker then the stock sheet metal hoods. 4. Continue working with the hood until the hood lines up with the fenders and cowl. 2. Close hood and pull and push hood until it lines up with the body lines the lift back up and tighten hinge bolts. 5. Next acquire 1/4x20 rod stock and cut 2 sections and install in the nutserts integrated in manufacturing into the upper nose section. 3. Slight trimming is required to allow the hood to sit down in all areas. Every car is slightly different so this is a step-by-step process until the hood sits flat. 6. Preliminary fit test show some slight trimming necessary to sit flat against the fenders. Remove the high spots with an angle grinder.

3 3 7. Continue with this process until upper nose sits tightly against both fenders. Keep in mind the hood will likely need to be addressed again to sit evenly and in unison with the upper nose. We ve seen variances here between cars especially when fender aprons are replaced too high or too low. Put the upper nose aside until the lower nose is fitted. 8. Preliminary fitment of lower nose. The center should sit on top of the radiator cross support. The optional but recommended, lower front brace can be used for extra support and has provisions to mount the lower center lights. This mounts to original bumper bracket locations on the front subframe using the original hardware. Part #JV-ELN-LFB The optional Lower Front Brace above gives support to the lower nose and creates the bracketing for the lower center mounted fog lights. Click here to order

4 4 9. Continue by contouring the lower nose to sit tightly against the fenders. Use a pencil or marker to mark the material that needs to be removed. The lower nose will use the natural bodyline on the fender, as a shelf. Do not remove all of the material here as the front fender flare needs integrate. Also there are areas at the front that will need to be removed or the nose will not wrap around the fender to the wheel well properly. 11. Continue by removing the excess material at the front of the fender. 12. Once again, don t forget to match with front fender flares in the process. Use a bonding agent (we recommend Speed Grip) at the sides of the fenders and secure the lower nose on both sides by shooting a screw through the tab at the wheel well opening in the center bottom of the picture above. Shoot two sheet metal screws through the middle of the lower nose where it rests on the cross support. Do not bond flares at this point! 10. Contour the to match fender. There is extra material here for this process however be careful not to remove too much. This area is cut out for the hood latch support.

5 5 13. The front splash-guard will need to be removed to allow access to the studs on the upper nose to actually bolt-in. Once together the car begins to take on that recognizable appearance. The upper and lower nose can be held together tightly by riveting them together. 15. We offer a headlight bucket kit shown above to complete the headlight installation. Click here. Simply install brackets double brackets to the core support, and the single to the outer fender tab. Then hold buckets in place. Make sure to pay attention to the adjusters so they have both vertical and horizontal adjustment, then mark and drill holes. The reason they are not pre-drilled is the tabs on the buckets are not installed on a jig so they end up in different locations. Once mounted, install headlight rings on upper hose and install upper nose. 14. When cutting out the headlights, it s important to leave ears/lips to install trim ring for the 5.75 headlights. Side Skirts Installation #1 Install the side skirts using jack stands, mark for drilling. If you re going for functional exhaust, we recommend marking and cutting the outer rocker to make room for the exhaust tip. It s recommended that you fill in the area exposing the inside rocker to minimize environmental affects. We find it best to rivet the skirt on the underside of the rockers. Also cut a U shape in the bottom of the skirt so the tip can pass through once installed.

6 6 wait for it to set. Again, using Speed Grip allows you to use the squeeze out to fill the area between the flare and body. No bondo needed. If you wish to obtain and attached look (ie the flares look like they are attached to the car) draw a line in the crease of the flare with a Dremel tool. This was the original technique used on the movie car. #2 Hold front flare in place and mark the excess to be removed. The excess is built in to allow for fitment variations of the side skirt. #3 Continue at the rear. The top edge of the side skirt will be the edge you apply Speed Grip for bonding. Again, the excess squeeze out can be used as the actual filler when using Speed Grip. We now offer Side Skirts without the exhaust opening for integration with the kit. However the rear corners relational to the rear flare has not been addressed. Click here for more info and ordering. The top edge of the flares have a bonding lip or surface for ease of installation. This promotes the mold in look. After applying Speed Grip, clamp the flare on the car and

7 7 We offer the side filler kit for the side fill gas cap pictured here part #MD-FBSFK. Click here to order. Side fill instructions The movie car used the Mach I Deluxe Pop Open Cap pictured here. However the Lemans style cap used on Cobras is also used on many builds pictured below. Tail Panel Installation It s best to drill out light sockets prior to installing the panel on the car if using normal bulb and socket style tail lights. If you use our LED panels, do not worry about drilling the holes. Only one hole would be needed to pass the wiring through. Continue by centering the tail panel on the car. Placement of Gas Cap On the driver side, you can do this without cutting the inner structure by putting the edge of the cap around 4.5 inches from the trunk line. However it looks much better if placed 8.5 on center from the trunk line. A small notch on the internal structure will be required to clear the gas fill piping. Our side filler kit is designed around using the original style cap at the 4.5" measurement, so an additional coupler as stated in the side fill instructions, and cutting the filler pipe mid length, front to back will allow you to both add length to the system, as well as rotate the tube to allow the use of the Lemans style cap. To recess the cap, trim out circle on car, add a little material to create the lip, and weld back in. Mark and drill the panel, then secure with sheet metal screws or rivets on the top and bottom edges. This is the method used on the original Shelby s. You can also use the bond on method previously discussed for a more finished look. Just make sure the bonding surfaces match up as discussed in the side scoops section to follow.

8 8 We offer this tail lamp kit #67-STLK2 to complete your tail lights, Click here #3 Sand the bonding surface just created with 80 grit. Speed Grip needs a good tooth for maximum bonding efficiency. You can apply scotch tape to the body at this point to catch the excess filler if you re going for the attached look. Lower Side Scoop Install #1 Test fit the side scoop. We decided to bond on the side scoops using Norton Speed Grip. NSG is a urethane-bonding adhesive that remains flexible, can be sanded, feathered and painted. So the use of traditional fillers that can crack can be avoided. Apply wax paper to the car surface area where the scoop contacts the car. Use kit # FS-380, cut out the front and make the side scoops functional. Please note, when making these functional on a coupe or convertible, it will render the rear quarter window inoperable. #4 Apply Norton Speed Grip to both surfaces. #5 Press the scoop to fit. Smooth any excess into the contact point to create a smooth look. Using the bond on method, the rise behind the door can be minimized by filing the lip down. In other words, just make the transition more gradual. #2 Add short strand fiberglass filler to the inside perimeter of the scoop and press fit to the car to create a bonding surface. #6 Sand and feather the scoop for paint. This bonding method can be used also on

9 9 the flares, side skirts, or where ever you decide to bond the fiberglass to the metal. certain areas to align. Removal of stock tension rods and/or springs is expected and use of a prop rod or other device is suggested. The sooner you approach the fitment of the trunk lid, the easier it is to get movement from it. There is a 6-8 week cure time in fiberglass so this is a critical time to make any necessary adjustments. Upper Scoops The bond on method can be used for the upper scoops as well. Otherwise, just use the 4ea studs already integrated into each upper scoop and bolt into the stock location of the vents they replace. The integrated studs may require minor bending to line up with the factory vent holes. Remove any excess material on the scoop to tighten up against the C pillars. Installation of Trunk Panel When fitting with the trunk itself, most cars vary slightly in width and height between the quarters. Final prep may include the adding of more filler to create a perfect seam between the trunk and end caps. The seal should be taped on and used in the fitment process. Also it s important to bolt the trunk on to your hinges, and attach the latch mechanism to secure. Consider the use of rubber bumpers to combat any height differences that may be encountered from side to side, or contours relational to the car. Since these hoods are thicker then a sheet metal hood, adjusting the hinges and possible reaming of the hinge holes may be necessary. Trimming of the seal in-half vertically can be helpful in the fitment process. You can also manipulate the drip rail itself inside the trunk to push up in We offer trunk lift kits designed for this purpose. Click here to order Installing Fiberglass End Caps First things first, the end caps will not just bolt right on. The edge that you match to your quarter panel is the edge that is cut while coming out of the mold. So, there it is expected that you will need to match this edge up to the contours of the quarter panel using either a flat edge file, or a angle grinder with a sanding disc attached. There is extra material built into the mold to accommodate the fitting of your end caps. The bolts that are integrated are usually fairly close to the holes on the car, but some minor bending may be in order to align. In some cases, some reaming of the holes on the car may also be in order.

10 10 #3 Make sure to pay attention to both sides of the end cap at the same time. Trim the excess until the cap begins to sit all the way down. This must be done evenly as you go or there will be alignment problems with the trunk lid. #1 Start out by matching the end cap up to the car. Find the high point areas, mark with a fine point marker. It s best to go little by little until the end cap begins sitting flush against the car. #2 This process will be repeated about times while you slowly remove the material to match the edge on the quarter panel. The excess it there to allow extra material for car to car variations. #4 On the top edge, it should be expected that there may be some minor filler and sanding for a perfect fit. Filler can be minimized by using sheet metal screws into the quarter panel, then flexing the cap down to flex to top edge line into position. This same technique can be used along the side of the end cap. #5 Each side will present different fit issues. Also, each car has history, so fitment may change drastically from one side to the next.

11 11 #6 Bolt on the end cap at this point for final fitment. #8 After the fitment has been addressed, it will follow the contour of an unmolested quarter panel very nicely. #7 A sheet metal screw is used to push-in the bottom of the end cap for the finishing touch. #9 Finishing of both the hood and trunk for paint will include using the skin coat technique with bondo for a show quality finish. The process includes a light scuff of the gelcoat, lay down a thin coat of bondo/filler, then high/low the part by wet sanding until the part has the desired finish.

12 12 #3 Use sheet metal screws to secure in place. Optional Fiberglass Bumper An optional fiberglass rear bumper can be installed without any bolts visible using the same bonding technique discussed here with Norton Speed Grip. Start by mounting and grinding the stock bumper brackets. #4 After the adhesive dries, remove the bumper from mounts inside the trunk. Grind off the alignment screws and prep for filler. #1 Fit the bumper and pre-drill holes. #5 After the filler is applied the smoothed bumper can now be primed and remounted for paint. #2 Apply bonding adhesive to both surfaces. Don t forget to sand the backside of the bumper with 80 grit before applying the adhesive. We offer this complete inexpensive light kit #VPS-LK5 for all the lights on the car. If using our fiberglass rear valance, add one more set of VPS-PL2020C to complete. Click here to view and order

13 13 Rims Fog light installation Here s the view from the rear. If you glass in a small flat bracket, you can bolt the lights onto that bracket, wire to complete. Same method is applied through the rest of the lights on the car. Side Exhaust Kit Parts & Accessories to Consider Optional Rear Valance #FS-M-7001RV Billet Grill Set

14 14 Exhaust Tips Fiberglass Rear Bumper Interior Kits Emblems Steering Wheel Kits Bullet Mirrors NOS Switches / Go Baby Go Shifter TCP Pedal Covers Gauge Kits Radiator / Grill Cover