COMPLETE TUNING GUIDE: NTC3

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1 COMPLETE TUNING GUIDE: NTC3 Contents Click on the button above to thoroughly familiarize yourself with the Guide. Good luck with your racing! #2382 e-book More than 50 pages, with over 70 black and white photos and illustrations, discuss 40 tuning options to set up your NTC3 to WIN! WARNING! UNAUTHORIZED REPRODUCTION IS FORBIDDEN Under penalty of law you are forbidden to make copies of this software or distribute it. Violators will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the law Associated Electrics, Inc. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED Version 2, October 2004 Associated Electrics, Inc Cadillac Ave. Costa Mesa, CA (714) $5.95 Black-and-white, low resolution, PDF version

2 Getting Started Complete Tuning Guide: NTC3 To get the most out of this Guide: Click on the underlined words to go to the Guide pages. Click on the red-circled Contents link at the top right of most pages to return to this page, or use your browser s Back button. Click on the appropriate zoom command in the View menu bar at top to zoom in and out. The wide left margin allows you to print out the pages and have them bound at your local printing shop. The page numbers are at the bottom. Contents Information in red text on this page is standard setting for the NTC3. Features are alphabetically listed within categories. GENERAL SUSPENSION 3 Anti-roll bars/blades none 4 Droop Front: #4. Rear: #3. 5 Ride Height 5.5mm FRONT SUSPENSION 6 Ackerman #3857 ball ends 7 Bump Steer Spacers none 8 Camber, front 2 9 Camber link adj, front Tower: lower/inner. 10 Caster 9 11 Toe, front 0-1 toe-out REAR SUSPENSION 12 Camber link adj, rear Tower: inside lower hole. 13 Camber, rear 2 ver 1 ver 2 14 Toe-in, rear 2 (outside hole on carrier) ver 1 ver 2 TIRES & WHEELS 15 Rollout 16 Tire Additive none 17 Tire Inserts incl. with tires 18 Tires Pro-Line # Track Width use gauge ver 1 ver 2 20 Wheels Pro-Line SHOCKS 21 Shock Body threaded 22 Shock Mounting, front Tower: middle hole. Arm: outer hole. 23 Shock Mounting, rear Tower: middle hole. Arm: outer hole. 24 Shock Oil Front & Rear: 40wt. 25 Shock Pistons Front: #3. Rear: #2 26 Shock Shaft # Shock Springs Front: Copper. Rear: Gold. ELECTRICAL 28 Radio 29 Steering Servo OTHER 30 Body varies 31 Clutch adjustment varies 32 Diff setting, front -1/4 33 Diff setting, rear -1/2. 34 Front One Way none 35 Pinion/Spur Gears 22 & 26, 50 & Solid Axle none 37 Two-speed shift adj, 3 1/2 turns clockwise 38 Weights none 39 Wing varies 2 ENGINE/CARB/PIPE 40 Carb type varies 40 Carb restrictor varies 41 Engine brand/size varies 42 Engine temperature Fuel brand varies 44 Glow plug #MC59 45 Muffler/Tuned Pipe varies 46 Starter varies 47 Car Comments 47 Race Comments 47 Track Conditions 2 Contents 1 Cover 48 Getting the Best Setup 49 Maintenance 50 Questions & Answers 53 Resources 54 Setting the Tweak Setup Sheet, blank, ver 1 ver 2 Toe-in Gauge

3 General Suspension Anti-roll Bar (sway bar) Anti-roll bars (figs. 1, 2) are used to stabilize a car from excessive chassis roll (which occurs when your car leans through the turns by centrifugal force). A car not using an anti-roll bar on a high traction surface will tend to have a lot of chassis roll, which results in being less responsive. A car using anti-roll bars on a high traction surface will tend to have less chassis roll, making the car more responsive to cornering, at the same time making the car more stable. Anti-roll bars can help plant your front or rear tires, giving them more traction. Consider using an anti-roll bar if you are having trouble oversteering or understeering. Anti-roll bars come in two types, wire and blade. Fig. 1 Use an anti-roll bar on front or back to stabilize your car from excessive chassis roll. This is the wire style sway bar. When do I use an anti-roll bar? Anti-roll bars are generally used on smooth, high traction conditions. If the track is very bumpy, then anti-roll bars are not needed. The more bumpy a track gets, the more the bars become a disadvantage. Anti-roll bars on bumpy tracks don t allow your suspension to work independently, making your car difficult to drive. If you are driving on a high traction surface and your car wants to oversteer, then use the optional #1715 blade anti-roll kit on the front (fig. 2). This will decrease the front chassis roll and decrease steering throughout the corner (this has the feeling of increasing rear traction). If your car is understeering, then try the optional #3960 anti-roll bar kit on the rear only (fig. 1). The rear anti-roll bar will decrease rear chassis roll and decrease rear traction (this has the feeling of increasing steering). How do I get the anti-roll bars? Anti-roll bars are optional items. Part #3960 is a wiretype anti-roll bar set, which can be used on either front or rear. Get two if you think you ll need anti-roll bars on both front and rear. Full installation instructions are included. You mark whether or not you used an anti-roll bar. Fig. 2 This blade type sway bar is on the front #1715, Front Blade Anti-Roll Bar Kit #3960, Front or Rear Anti-roll Bar Kit (wire type) 3

4 General Suspension Droop By turning the droop screws (fig. 4) in the suspension arms, you can control the angle the arms droop when at rest. Droop can help speed up or slow down how fast the car changes direction when cornering. We use a droop gauge for measuring droop, fig. 1. You can limit the amount of shock travel by increasing or decreasing suspension arm droop. One of its effects is to reduce chassis roll. The Factory Team droop gauge coupled with the droop screws helps make precise measurements. If you use the droop screws method, remove any shock travel limiters you may have on your shock shafts. Increasing droop (lower number on the droop gauge) will give more shock travel. Decreasing droop (higher number on the droop gauge) will limit shock travel. if higher traction use less droop if more bumps use more droop droop gauge Fig. 1 The droop gauge measures droop. How do I know which droop setting to use? Recommended starting droop settings: Front droop: 4. Rear: 3. When your car leans too much in the turns, decrease droop-- this will limit the shock travel. Also, try decreasing droop in the front arms on high traction smooth tracks when your car s front ont end rises on acceleration. The decrease can give you more e steering this way. In the rear, less droop is used only for high traction, smooth tracks. Increase droop for bumpy tracks. Droop affects shock travel. If the track has high traction, such as carpet, then you may want to take droop out of your car by going higher on the droop gauge. Too little droop will cause a loss of traction. There will be a proper balance between steering and rear traction for the various track s conditions. Use the above guidelines to find your ideal setup. How do I change the droop? 1. Remove the tires and front shocks. 2. Place the droop gauge on a flat surface. 3. Place the bottom of the chassis on top of the gauge, fig. 2. Make sure the screws are not resting on the gauge and that the chassis and gauge remain flat. 4. Slide the gauge so the shock mounting portion of the front arm rests on step 4. With your 3/32 Allen wrench, adjust the set screw so the outer part of the arm just touches the step. Adjust both front arms. 5. Remove the rear shocks and slide the gauge to the rear arms and repeat the adjustment. The shock mount portion of the rear arms will rest on step 3, fig. 3. You mark what droop settings you used on the front and rear. Fig. 4 Droop screw hole Fig. 2 The front arm rests on step 4. Fig. 3 The rear arm rests on step 3. #3987, Droop gauge TIP 1/8 turn of droop set screw equals 1/2 step in change of the droop gauge. 1/4 turn equals 1 step change. TIP By using a 3/32 Allen driver it is easier to adjust the droop set screws. TIP For foam tires: Front setting = 4, rear = 4. For rubber tires: Front setting =4, rear = 3. 4

5 General Suspension Ride Height Ride height describes the distance of the vehicle from the bottom of the chassis to the surface the car is resting on (fig. 1). Turning your shock collars up or down changes the ride height. This adjustment must be made with the kit fully equipped (including all electrical equipment) and the body off. We suggest starting with about 5.5mm clearance between the chassis and ground. You set the initial ride height with the track width/ride height tool, fig. 3. Fig. 1 Ride height is the distance from the chassis bottom to the ground. When should I change the ride height? This adjustment helps to speed up or slow down how fast the car changes direction when cornering. Do not use a ride height lower than 3mm. You should always check the ride height after making all your other adjustments, just before you are ready to race. You can measure the ride height with the ride height gauge, fig. 5. For higher traction use a lower ride height (lower number on the ride height gauge). For bumpier tracks add more ride height (higher number on the ride height gauge). How do I change the ride height? Fig. 2 Use the track width/ride height tool to set ride height. Fig. 3 Ride height is adjusted by first adjusting droop settings. Then you set the ride height by using the track width tool, fig. 3. It sets your ride height at 5.5mm high. 1. Have the car ready to run with no body. 2. Set the car on a flat surface. 3. Try to slide the track width tool under one corner of the rear of the chassis, fig Turn the shock collar until the tool just touches the chassis. Check both corners of the rear. 5. Slide the tool under the front of the car and adjust the shock collars. Check both corners of the front. 6. To set a different ride height, slide the ride height gauge under the car at the sides, fig. 5, front and back, and move your shock collars, fig. 4, until the tool just touches the chassis. You note your ride height dimension in inches or mm. Fig. 4 Change the preload clips (fig. 2) or turn the collar of the threaded shocks (fig. 4) to adjust ride height. Fig. 5 Use the ride height gauge to measure ride height. #1450, Factory Team Blue Aluminum Ride Height Gauge #1719, NTC3 Camber/Track Width Tool #8846, Shock Preload Clips, 5 sizes, for non threaded shock bodies #3963, Factory Team Anodized TC3 Threaded Shock Body & Collar with cap O-rings. Pr. #8450, VCS Macro Shock Body, aluminum, non threaded #8450B, VCS Macro Shock Body, blue aluminum, non threaded #8458, VCS Macro Shock Body, non threaded composite 5

6 Front Suspension Ackerman Ackerman gives more traction to the tires by steering them correctly through the turns. Specifically, it causes the inside front wheel to turn tighter than the outside front wheel (fig. 1). Standard Ackerman is preferred by most Team drivers. Contents 2003 Associated Electrics, Inc. All Rights Reserved. How do I know when to adjust Ackerman? The standard setting (fig. 2) gives a comfortable driving feeling. Use optional Ackerman (fig. 3) if you want more aggressive steering feeling. The car may feel harder to drive. How do I change Ackerman? By changing the two #3857 special ball ends with two longer neck #6270 ball ends to the swing rack, a more aggressive steering feeling can be achieved. This decreases Ackerman. Fig. 1 Ackerman causes the inside front wheel to turn tighter than the outside front wheel. (TC3 shown.) You indicate which Ackerman setting you used. You have two choices, standard or optional. #3857 black short ball ends (in kit) #6270 silver long ball ends (optional) Standard Ackerman setup Optional Ackerman setup Fig. 2 Your steering rack setting determines Ackerman. Fig. 3 #2228, NTC3 Swing Rack #2229, NTC3 Swing Rack Hardware ( ) #3857, Short Ball Ends (black) #6270, Long Ball Ends (silver) 6

7 Front Suspension Bump Steer Bump Steer takes its name from the fact that when the car goes over bumps, it changes the steering. Bump steer is the undesirable effect of extra toe-in in one front tire or the other as your car goes over bumps, making your steering unpredictable. Your car then bounces back and forth instead of going straight through the bumps. When should I change the bump steer? Change the bump steer when you want to keep a straight line through bumpy asphalt track sections, or have better control of your steering through bumps. You should check the bump steer any time you change the caster in your car. Fig. 1 Bump steer is changed by adding a spacer between the ball stud and steering arm. How do I change the bump steer? 1. Pop off the steering turnbuckle. 2. Remove the ball end and add a spacer (fig. 1) to the ball end. 3. Then replace the ball end with the spacer in place and pop on the turnbuckle. You mark the thickness of washer used, such as.032 or.064. #4187, Shock Travel Limiters (and bump steer spacers), 12 ea. 1/32 shims #6466, Shock Travel Limiters (and bump steer spacers), 4 ea. of 1/8 (.125), 1/16 (.062), 1/32 7

8 Front Suspension Camber, front Camber describes the angle of the wheels as their tops lean to or away from the chassis (fig. 1). Negative camber means the tire leans inward at the top. Camber is measured in degrees. How do I know which setting to use? Use 2 to 3 of negative camber on high traction tracks. Use 1 to 2 on low traction tracks. How do I change the camber? 1. Set your car on a flat surface. 2. Use the camber/rear toe-in gauge for setting camber, fig. 2. When using the gauge, make sure that the number you want to set it at is down at the bottom of the tire, fig. 3. Find the 2 and push it against the tire at the bottom. 3. Use your 5/64 Allen wrench to adjust the upper pivot ball, fig. 4, until the tire lines up with the gauge. Contents 2003 Associated Electrics, Inc. All Rights Reserved. camber angle Fig. 1 Camber is seen from the back or front of the car. Fig. 2 Camber/rear toe-in gauge. You note how much camber you used. Fig. 3 Set the degrees of camber you want next to the bottom of the tire. Fig. 4 Insert your Allen wrench where shown to adjust camber. (Tire removed for clarity.) 8 #1719, Camber/Track Width Tool

9 Front Suspension Camber Link Adjustment, front You have two places to mount your upper front suspension arms (fig. 1). Those holes are the camber link positions. Changing the mounting position of the camber links can affect traction and stability. How do I know which link is best? We suggest using the standard setting for almost all conditions. The optional position will give your car more overall traction in slippery conditions. How do I change the link position? See fig. 2 for the parts mentioned in these steps. 1. Remove the bumper. 2. Remove the two caster clips. 3. Remove the #9146 screw and front hinge pin. 4. Move the suspension arm to the new location. 5. Add the front hinge pin and screw. 6. Add the two caster clips and bumper. You mark here which shock tower hole you used, inner or outer hole. Contents 2003 Associated Electrics, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Fig. 1 A = optional mounting position. B = standard mounting position. #2239 caster clip #2235 front hinge pin #9146 screw A Fig. 2 Remove these parts to change camber link position. B 9

10 Front Suspension Caster, front Caster describes the angle of the steering block from vertical when it is leaned toward the rear of the vehicle, fig. 1. Positive caster means the steering block leans rearward at the top. It influences the amount of steering entering and exiting corners. How do I know which setting to use? Standard kit setup is 9 of caster. The car can be adjusted in 3 increments (6, 9, and 12 ). Use 12 caster if you need increased turn-in steering but less steering exiting corners. It will also be more stable in bumpy track conditions. Use 6 caster if you need less turn-in steering, but more steering exiting corners. It will be less stable in bumpy track conditions. Fig. 1 Positive caster leans the steerign block rearward at the top. How do I change the caster? By changing the caster clips, fig. 2. Both clips to the front equals 6 caster. One clip on either side equals 9 caster. Both clips to the rear equals 12 caster. You note how much caster you used, 6, 9, or 12. Fig. 2 Move these clips to change caster. #2239, Caster Clips 10

11 Front Suspension Toe-in & Toe-out, front Front toe-in/toe-out describes the angle of the wheels when viewed from above (fig. 1), the front of the wheel turning inward (toe-in) or outward (toe-out), rather than pointing straight ahead. It is measured in degrees. toe angle How do choose front toe-in or toe-out? We suggest using 0 to 1 toe-out on the NTC3. Toe-in will make your car easier to drive by improving stability during acceleration at low speed. Toe-out will increase steering when entering corners, but will be slightly more difficult to drive at low speed. On slippery tracks use a small amount of toe-in. Add toe-in to the front tires if you need help stabilizing your vehicle during acceleration. Doing this will also decrease the amount of steering when entering a corner, and increase it coming out of a turn during acceleration. Add toe-out when you need more steering entering a corner ner. But doing this will cause instability when accelerating on bumpy tracks or down a slippery straightaway. Fig. 1 Toe angle. How do I change the toe-in or toe-out? By turning the steering turnbuckle you adjust this setting (fig. 2). To measure the setting in degrees, print out the NTC3 Toe-In Gauge. (Directions are on the page.) You may also choose to purchase a toe-in gauge made by aftermarket companies. Fig. 2 Use this tool to adjust toe on the steering turnbuckle. You write in what toe setting you are using in degrees. #1402, Factory Team Blue Titanium Turnbuckles, #6956, Molded Tool Set 11

12 Rear Suspension, ver. 1 Camber Link Adjustment, rear You have two places to mount your upper rear suspension arms (fig. 1). Those holes are the camber link positions. Changing the mounting position of the camber links can affect traction and stability. How do I know which link is best? We suggest using the standard setting for almost all conditions. The optional position will give your car more overall traction in slippery conditions. How do I change the link position? See fig. 2 for the parts mentioned in these steps. 1. Remove the #9146 screw and front hinge pin. 2. Move the suspension arm to the new location. 3. Add the front hinge pin and screw. You mark here which shock tower hole you used, inner or outer hole. Fig. 1 A = optional mounting position. B = standard mounting position. A Fig. 2 Remove these parts to change camber link position. B #2235 rear hinge pin #9146 screw 12, ver. 1

13 Rear Suspension, ver. 2 Camber Link Adjustment, rear You have three places to mount your turnbuckle link on the tower (fig. 1). Those holes are the camber link positions. Changing the mounting position of the camber links can affect traction and stability. How do I know which link is best? Using a longer mounting position will increase traction, but decrease stability. Using a shorter mounting position will decrease traction, but increase stability. Adding a washer or two between hub carrier and eyelet ball raises the roll center, increasing traction. It slows the side to side roll or motion of the chassis. Use this optional position for high traction tracks. How do I change the link position? See fig. 2 for the parts mentioned in these steps. 1. Remove nut #2309 and screw # Move turnbuckle to new position on tower and reinstall nut #2309 and screw # At hub carrier, remove screw # Add washer or washers under eyelet ball. 5. Turn screw #2308 counterclockwise until it drops in the original threads, then tighten. Fig. 1 Top hole is the standard position. Fig. 2 Move these parts to change camber link position. You mark which shock tower hole you used. You mark which washers you added, if any, and their sizes. 12, ver. 2

14 Rear Suspension, ver. 1 Camber, rear Camber describes the angle of the wheels as their tops lean to or away from the chassis (fig. 1). Negative camber means that the tire leans inward at the top. Camber is measured in degrees. How do I know which setting to use? Use 2 to 3 of negative camber on high traction tracks. Use 1 to 2 on low traction tracks. How do I change the camber? camber angle Fig. 1 Camber is seen from the back or front of the car. 1. Set your car on a flat surface. 2. Use the camber/rear toe-in gauge (fig. 2) for setting camber. When using the gauge, make sure that the number you want to set it at is down at the bottom of the tire, fig. 2. Find the 2 and push it against the tire at the bottom. 3. Use your 5/64 Allen wrench to adjust the upper pivot ball until the tire lines up with the gauge, fig. 3. You note how much camber you used. Fig. 2 Set the degrees of camber you want next to the bottom of the tire. Fig. 3 Insert your Allen wrench where shown to adjust camber. #1719, Camber/Track Width Tool 13, ver. 1

15 Rear Suspension, ver. 2 Camber, rear Camber describes the angle of the wheels as their tops lean to or away from the chassis (fig. 1). Negative camber means that the tire leans inward at the top. Camber is measured in degrees. camber angle How do I know which setting to use? Use 2 to 3 of negative camber on high traction tracks. Use 1 to 2 on low traction tracks. How do I change the camber? Fig. 1 Camber is seen from the back or front of the car. 1. Set your car on a flat surface. 2. Use the camber/rear toe-in gauge (fig. 2) for measuring camber. When using the gauge, make sure that the number of degrees you want at is at the bottom of the tire, fig. 2. Find the 2 and push it against the tire at the bottom. 3. Use your turnbuckle tool to adjust the turnbuckle until the tire lines up with the gauge, fig. 3. You note how much camber you used. Fig. 2 Set the degrees of camber you want next to the bottom of the tire. Fig. 3 Adjust this turnbuckle to change camber. #1719, Camber/Track Width Tool 13, ver. 2

16 Rear Suspension, ver. 1 Toe-in, rear Rear toe-in/toe-out describes the angle of the wheels when viewed from above (fig. 1), the front of the wheel turning inward (toe-in) or outward (toe-out), rather than pointing straight ahead. It is measured in degrees. You can change the angle of toe to influence rear traction and steering. When do I choose rear toe-in or toe-out? 2 toe-in on each side works best on most conditions. Decreasing rear toe, you will decrease rear traction and add steering. We do not recommend running more than 3 of rear toe-in. Contents 2003 Associated Electrics, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Fig. 1 Toe-in angle. toe angle 2 recommended How do I adjust the rear toe? To adjust toe-in, turn the rear toe-in turnbuckle with the turnbuckle wrench or needlenose pliers, fig. 2. To measure accurately, use the camber/rear toe-in gauge, fig. 3, as follows. 1. Stand the NTC3 on its rear end on a flat surface. 2. The numbers around three corners of the gauge stand for degrees. Rest the camber/rear toe-in gauge against the tire, number of degrees desired toward the bottom of the tire as shown in fig Adjust the turnbuckle shown in fig. 2 until the tire rests evenly against the tool. Fig. 2 Adjust rear toe by turning this turnbuckle with your turnbuckle wrench or needlenose pliers. Fig. 3 Camber/rear toein gauge. You write in which toe setting you are using. Fig. 4 Set your gauge against the tire as shown #1719, Camber/Rear Toe-In Gauge 14, ver. 1

17 Rear Suspension, ver. 2 Toe-in, rear Rear toe-in/toe-out describes the angle of the wheels when viewed from above (fig. 1), the front of the wheel turning inward (toe-in) or outward (toe-out), rather than pointing straight ahead. It is measured in degrees. You can change the angle of toe to influence rear traction and steering. toe angle 2 recommended When do I choose rear toe-in or toe-out? 2 toe-in on each side works best in most conditions. Decreasing rear toe, you will decrease rear traction and add steering. We do not recommend running more than 3 of rear toe-in. Fig. 1 Toe-in angle. How do I adjust the rear toe? To adjust toe-in, turn the forward pivot ball in the rear wheel with your Allen wrench, fig. 2. To measure accurately, use the camber/rear toe-in gauge, fig Stand the NTC3 on its rear end on a flat surface. 2. The numbers around three corners of the gauge stand for degrees. Rest the camber/rear toe-in gauge against the tire, number of degrees desired toward the bottom of the tire as shown in fig Adjust the forward pivot ball (fig. 2) until the tire rests evenly against the tool. Fig. 2 Adjust rear toe by turning the frontward inset screw. Fig. 3 Camber/rear toein gauge. You write in which toe setting you are using. Fig. 4 Set your gauge against the tire as shown #1719, Camber/Rear Toe-In Gauge 14, ver. 2

18 Tires & Wheels Rollout Your 2-speed clutch gearing ratio will change as your foam tire diameter changes with tire wear, tire swap, and foam tire changes. Rollout is a more precise way to set a vehicle s gearing because it also takes into account the tire diameter. Rollout is defined as the distance a vehicle moves forward per revolution of the engine. Your rollout depends on your tire s circumference. You can calculate the circumference by doing the math: Tir ire e Dia. X 3.14 = Circumference. Or you can measure it by adding a tick mark to the bottom tire edge (fig. 1) and rolling it along a scale (fig. 2) until the tick mark again comes around to the bottom. Fig. 1 Measure your tire s circumference for rollout. When do I consider rollout? You may wish to match the fastest racer s gearing. But you can t simply use the same 2-speed clutch combo as the fastest racer because the tire diameter may be different. That s when you consider rollout, in which the tire circumference and transmission ratio are considered in addition to the 2-speed clutch ratio. To figure rollout, measure the circumference of the rear tire, how many teeth are on your 2-speed clutch gears, and determine your transmission ratio (on the NTC3 the ratio is 2.5). Then plug them into this equation: Tir ire Circumfer cumference ence times Transmission Ratio of 2.5 times (Gear1 times Gear2) = Final Drive Ratio. Fig. 2 Measure your tire s circumference for rollout. Measure the final drive ratio for the other racer s car and your own. Now change your 2-speed clutch gear numbers until the final drive ratio for your car matches the other one. You usually don t add rollout to the setup sheet, but you can add it to the Car Comments section. 15

19 Tires & Wheels Tire Additive Tire conditioner, or traction sauce, is applied to the tires to enhance the performance of the tires. It softens the rubber and creates more grip. How do I apply tire additive? It is best to clean the tire surface before you apply the conditioner. Apply motor spray or alcohol to a rag and wipe the rubber. Or use one of the name brand tire cleaners that are available at your hobby store or track. Use a brush to remove any residue or debris that may be on the tires. Then apply a complete coat of tire conditioner to each of the tires at least a half-hour before you run the car. Wipe off any excess that might still be on the tires before you race. This will help soften the tires and provide you with needed traction. When do I use tire additive? The best time to use tire conditioner is when you find that you are on a prepared surface. Do not use it when you are running on a dirty or dusty surface (like a parking lot or the street in front of your house) because the tires will get coated with a layer of dust and the car will slide around even more. If you are going racing, ask the racers there what type of tire conditioner they are using. It will save you a considerable amount of money in trial and error for the best brand. You mark that you used tire additive. TIP Try applying tire conditioner to all four tires when encountering slick surfaces. Use the conditioner when on dry, clean tracks when you need more traction, especially through the corners. 16

20 Tires & Wheels Tire Inserts Rubber tires need support to retain their shape. Tire inserts (fig. 1) give this support. How do I know which insert to use? The foam insert s density is important. Too firm an insert will cause your car to bounce, resulting in loss of traction. Too light a foam will cause the car to wander and to be unstable. Typically a harder insert has less rolling resistance, which increases cornering. However if too hard, it can cause the car to be loose. Softer inserts provide maximum traction, but increases drag. Fig. 1 Write in the foam type that you used, soft, medium, or firm. 17

21 Tires & Wheels Tires Tire choice is one of the most crucial choices a racer has to make. The proper tire choice will either hook up all your car s setups or ruin it. The NTC3 will accept all popular touring car tires, including foam tires (fig. 1). How do I know which tire to use? Normally, racers use the same tires all around. But circumstances may dictate otherwise. Try softer tires all around for more e traction. For more steering or front traction, try softer tires in front than those in rear. Choose the tire that the most successful racers are using at that track. Some races require a spec tire. This is when the same tire is used by every car. In these cases, tire choice has been made for you! Beyond these basics, you may want to learn more about temperature rated tires, belted tires, treaded, slick, and foam tire compounds for more tuning options. foam rubber Fig. 1 You write in which brand and type of tire you used. Fig. 2 Glue your rubber tires to the rims to prevent the tires from slipping. Use protective gloves. 18

22 Tires & Wheels, ver. 1 Track Width You can adjust the track width of the NTC3. That is, you can widen the distance between the outside front wheels. track width How do I know which width to use? Standard setting is attained by using the track width gauge, fig. 2. Increase the track width for more e stability. How do I change the track width? 1. Insert the 5/64 Allen wrench into the steering block s and hub carrier s top and bottom pivot balls and turn clockwise to narrow the track width, counter-clockwise to widen it. 2. Insert the track width gauge where shown (fig. 3) and tighten the pivot balls against it to attain the standard track width setting. (Set bottom ball for track width and use the top ball for camber adjustment.) 3. After adjusting track width, it will be necessary to reset your camber and toe adjustments. Track width can also be changed by using offset wheels. Offset wheels vary the center point of the mounting hex in relation to the wheel center. You can purchase wheels that add or decrease offset from 1mm to 3mm. Fig. 1 Track width changes the distance between the front wheels. Fig. 2 Track width gauge. In the Car Comments section you can indicate that wider or narrower track width was used. Fig. 3 Changing track width. #1719, Camber/Rear Toe-In Gauge 19, ver. 1

23 Contents Tires & Wheels, ver. 2 Track Width You can adjust the track width of the NTC3. That is, you can widen the distance between the outside front wheels. How do I know which width to use? Standard setting is attained by using the track width gauge, fig. 2. Increase the track width for more e stability. track width How do I change the track width? Use the track width gauge (fig. 2) to set the track width at standard setting. 1. Insert the 5/64" Allen wrench into both pivot balls through the rear wheel where shown and turn clockwise to narrow the track width, counter-clockwise to widen it. 2. Insert the track width gauge where shown and tighten the pivot balls against it to attain the standard track width setting. 3. After adjusting track width, it will be necessary to reset your camber and toe adjustments. Track width can also be changed by using offset wheels. Offset wheels vary the center point of the mounting hex in relation to the wheel center. You can purchase wheels that add or decrease offset from 1mm to 3mm. Fig. 1 Track width changes the distance between the front wheels. Fig. 2 Track width gauge. In the Car Comments section you can indicate that wider or narrower track width was used. Fig. 3 Changing track width. #1719, Camber/Rear Toe-In Gauge 19, ver. 2

24 Tires & Wheels Wheels Associated provides 1-piece 24mm wheels (fig. 1). The standard hex wheels are made for 4mm axles. No offset comes with the NTC3 wheels. How do I know which wheel type to use? Standard 1-piece wheels are used because of their light weight, but their drawback is that they must be glued to the tires. They allow quick change from one set of prepared wheel/tire combo to another. Preferred wheel by racers. You can also use 26mm wheels, which will stretch the tire out, giving a larger tire patch and lower sidewall. This decreases tire deflection from side to side. The more tire touching the asphalt (tire patch) the more traction. You fill in what wheels you used, standard or otherwise. Fig. 1 Your wheel. Fig. 2 Glue your tires to the wheels to prevent the tires from slipping... Fig then double-wrap a wide width rubber band to hold the rubber to the rim firmly. TIP Some drivers balance their wheels with an airplane prop balancer and lead tape such as used on golf clubs. #1597, Tire Adhesive (glues tires to rims) #3989, Pro-Line Wheels, pr. For more wheels, contact your local hobby shop 20

25 Shocks Shock Body The shock body (fig. 1) houses the oil and piston components. They come in two types, threaded and non threaded. With threaded bodies, you can fine tune your ride height by simply turning the adjustment collar. With non threaded, preload clips that come in various thicknesses are used to adjust ride height. How do I know which shock body to use? Use the composite shock body if you have budget restraints. They are also lighter than aluminum. Use the aluminum shock body for better wear. Of the aluminum bodies, you have a choice of threaded (fig. 2) or unthreaded. Use the threaded shock bodies if you need finer ride height adjustments. Fig. 1 Left to right: Composite, blue aluminum and threaded aluminum shock body. You indicate the body used. You have two choices, threaded and non threaded. Fig. 2 Choose the threaded shock body style if you want finer ride height adjustments. TIP Use a permanent marker to mark your shocks with an F and R to designate front and rear. 21 #3963, Factory Team Anodized Threaded Shock Body & Collar with cap O-rings, pr. #8450, VCS Macro Shock Body, aluminum, ea. #8450B, VCS Macro Shock Body, blue aluminum, ea. #8458, VCS Macro Shock Body, molded composite, ea. 1598, Factory Team Shock Cap, blue anodized aluminum, 4 #6428, Shock Cap, molded, 1

26 Shocks Shock Mounting, front You have three mounting positions for your shocks on the tower (figs. 1-3). Shock tower mounting will affect steering. The lower the angle of the shock (toward the inside hole on the tower and outside hole on the arm), the more it directs pressure toward the arms, and thus the more aggressively it will affect your steering. The more vertical the shock (fig. 1), the more the dampening. Make sure you re-check the ride height after shock mounting changes. When do I change the mounting position? Middle hole (fig. 3) on tower and outer hole on arm is standard. Outside hole on tower reduces steering. It also increases the dampening. The inside or middle tower position (fig. 2) adds steering. Dampening is also decreased. Great for tracks with good traction. Mounting the shock on the suspension arm s inner hole makes the front suspension softer. How do I change the mounting position? Remove from the tower the nylon locknut, shock, shock bushing, plain nut, and screw and replace them in another hole. Remove the screw from the arm and replace in another hole. Fig. 1 Outside hole of tower reduces steering and increases dampening. Fig. 2 Inside and middle holes of tower add steering, decrease dampening, and decrease spring rate. You mark here which shock tower hole and arm holes you mounted your shock. You have three choices for the tower and two for the arm. Fig. 3 Middle hole is standard. 22

27 Shocks Shock Mounting, rear There are several mounting possibilities for your rear shocks. Make sure you re-check the ride height after shock mounting changes. How do I know which position to use? Middle hole on tower and outer hole on arm is standard. Outside hole, fig. 1, decreases traction and increases dampening. Inside hole and middle, fig. 2, increases traction and decreases dampening. Moving the rear shock to the suspension arm s inside hole softens the rear. Fig. 1 The outside hole is standard. How do I change the mounting position? Remove from the tower the nylon locknut, shock, shock bushing, plain nut, and screw and replace them in another hole. Remove the screw from the arm and replace in another hole. Mark here which holes you used to mount your shock on the rear tower and arms. Fig. 2 The inside and middle holes increase traction. 23

28 Shocks Shock Oil Oil weight determines the dampening of your car. It helps control how quickly the spring rebounds. In other words, shock springs hold your car off the ground (determines ride height); oil determines how quickly the car regains that height after the bumps. Heavier weight oil makes rebound more sluggish than lighter weight oil. Associated sells high-quality silicone oil in 2 oz. bottles from 10 wt to 80 wt. This silicone oil handles well over a wider range of weather conditions. The larger the number, such as 80 wt, the heavier the weight, that is, the oil viscosity is thicker. How do I know which oil weight to use? Standard setting is 40 wt oil (fig. 1) in front with #3 piston and 40wt in rear with #2 piston. If your car chatters too much then switch to a lighter oil, such as 30 wt and a #2 piston. Use lighter oil, such as 25 wt, for bumpier tracks. It increases traction, but increases chassis roll. How do I change the oil? 1. Remove the shock from the car. Pull out the spring cup and spring. 2. Unscrew the shock cap and pour the oil onto a paper towel. Discard the paper towel properly. 3. Holding the shock upright, fill with oil to the top of the body. 4. Slowly move the shaft up and down several times to allow air bubbles to escape to the top. 5. Refill with oil to the top of the body. Push shaft in until piston is at mouth of shock body. 6. Fill the shock cap about halfway with oil and install onto the body. Try to retain as much oil as possible during assembly. The shaft will extend out as you tighten the cap down. 7. Move the shock shaft in and out a few times and then push it all the way in. It should be easy to push the shaft in. 8. Then the shaft should push itself out to its full length slowly. 9. If the shock does not push out this far, there is not enough oil in it. Add a drop of oil and try steps 7-8 again. If the shock rebounds too fast, or you cannot push the shaft in, there is too much oil. Loosen the cap about a full turn and pump out a small amount of oil by pushing the shaft in. Retighten the cap and try steps 7-8 again. Too much oil in the shock will result in leakage. 10. Insert the spring, compress the spring, and slide on the spring cup. 11. Install the shock and fasten with the locknut and screw. You mark here which weight of oil you used. If you used the oil shown, you would mark 40 in the space. Fig. 1 The correct oil weight can help you regain your ride height in a way that s best for your track conditions. #5420, Silicone Shock Oil, 10 weight, 2 oz. #5421, Silicone Shock Oil, 20 weight, 2 oz. #5422, Silicone Shock Oil, 30 weight, 2 oz. #5423, Silicone Shock Oil, 40 weight, 2 oz. #5425, Silicone Shock Oil, 80 weight, 2 oz. #5427, Silicone Shock Oil, 15 weight, 2 oz. #5428, Silicone Shock Oil, 25 weight, 2 oz. #5429, Silicone Shock Oil, 35 weight, 2 oz. #5435, Silicone Shock Oil, 50 weight, 2 oz. #5436, Silicone Shock Oil, 60 weight, 2 oz. #5437, Silicone Shock Oil, 70 weight, 2 oz. 24

29 Shocks Shock Pistons Pistons (fig. 1) determine shock dampening. The piston has two holes through which the oil flows as the piston travels up and down in the shock. The size of the holes help control how quickly the spring rebounds. The holes in the piston can be likened to doors in a store letting people in for a sale. If the doors were opened only part way, then they let people through more slowly than if the door were wide open. So the smaller holes in the piston means less oil can get through and thus means more sluggish shocks. Generally, you change both the oil weight and pistons for better effect. Shock dampening manages the resistance of the shock as the piston moves up and down through the oil in the shock body. Changing the piston hole size changes the dampening characteristic of the shock. The smaller holes provides the heaviest dampening. The larger holes provides the least dampening, allowing the oil through more quickly. Associated #6465 includes 4 each of #1, #2, and #3 pistons (fig. 2). The #1 piston has the largest holes and the #3 piston has the smallest holes. Changing pistons is like changing the oil viscosity. For example, swapping #1 for #2 or #2 for #3 (going to a smaller hole) changes the oil rate by 5wt. each. So 30wt. would become 35 when you change to the next smallest hole size. How do I know which piston to use? Standard setting for front is #3. For rear, #2. If your car chatters too much, you may try a larger piston size. As a general rule of thumb, with certain exceptions, the smoother the track surface, the smaller the hole piston. Standard setting has the #3 piston in front and #2 piston in the rear. How do I change pistons? larger hole smaller hole lightest medium heaviest dampening Fig. 1 Your shock pistons further fine-tune your shock dampening characteristics. The smaller holes in the piston means less oil can get through and thus means more sluggish shocks. Fig. 2 It will help to run a black marker over the pistons so you can see the numbers better. Also, insert the pistons so the number is facing the opening of the shock body so you can read it quickly when removing the shock cap. You must remove your shocks from the car and take them apart. Remove the shock eyelet and shock cap and pull out the shaft. Remove the end E-clip from the shaft to change pistons. #6465, Shock Pistons, 4 each of #1, #2, and #3 You write here which shock piston you ve added to your shocks, #1, #2, or #3. 25

30 Shocks Shock Shaft Your shock shaft (fig. 1) communicates the shock s dampening effects to your suspension arm. Associated has shafts in two compositions, standard shafts and Unobtainium. How do I know which shock shaft to use? Use the Unobtainium shaft if you want smoother shock action. Highly recommended for competition racing. Fig. 1 Standard shock shaft (left), Unobtainium shock shaft. The Unobtainium shaft has a burnt, blue color in spots. You indicate if you used Associated s standard shafts or Unobtainium. TIP Experienced racers use Green Slime to lube the internal shock parts instead of using oil. This gives superior shock action. #1105, Green Slime #3964, TC3/NTC3 Unobtainium Shock Shafts, pr. #8844, TC3/NTC3 Shock Shaft,.35 stroke, ea. 26

31 Shocks Shock Springs The purpose of the springs (fig. 1) is to keep the vehicle level during acceleration, deceleration, and cornering. Several spring tensions (fig. 2) are available to achieve this. How do I know which spring to use? Recommended setting for rubber tires: Front, Copper. Rear, Gold. Recommended setting for foam tires: Front, Yellow. Rear, Red. Stiffer springs help your suspension respond more quickly and help decrease chassis roll, but because of their stiffness they will not absorb bumps as well. Use stiffer springs in high traction conditions. Softer springs are best for tracks with many small bumps and for slippery conditions. How do I change the spring? 1. Remove the shock s top locknut and bottom screw and pull the shock from the car. 2. Compress the spring, pull out the spring cup, and slide out the spring. 3. Slide on a new spring. 4. Compress the spring and slide on the spring cup. 5. Install the shock and attach with locknut and bottom screw. 6. Recheck ride height. Write in which shock springs you used by color. Each shock spring is color-coded (fig. 2) according to the stiffness of the spring. Fig. 1 Your shock springs help keep your car level during acceleration. Green 12.0 lb./in. softer Silver 14.5 Blue Gold Red 22.0 Copper 25.0 Purple Yellow 35.0 White 40.0 stiffer Fig. 2 Your shock springs are color-coded according to their stiffness. The list above has the softest springs at top and stiffest springs at bottom. #3941, TC3/NTC3 Springs, Green, 12.0 lb./in. #3942, TC3/NTC3 Springs, Silver, 14.5 #3943, TC3/NTC3 Springs, Blue, #3944, TC3/NTC3 Springs, Gold, #3945, TC3/NTC3 Springs, Red, 22.0 #3946, TC3/NTC3 Springs, Copper, 25.0 #3952, TC3/NTC3 Springs, Purple, #3953, TC3/NTC3 Springs, Yellow, 35.0 #3954, TC3/NTC3 Springs, White, 40.0 #3988, TC3/NTC3 Spring Set, all springs above, 1pr. ea. 27

32 Electrical Radio Your hand-held radio transmitter (fig. 1) sends signals to your servos to control your car steering, speed and other important adjustments. Popular radio systems include Airtronics, Futaba, Hitec, and KO Propo. How can radios affect tuning? Some radios have many tuning options for your car. See your radio manual for your available features. (Terminology can also differ between manufacturers.) Throw / Travel / End Point Adjustment (EPA). This adjustment modifies how far the servo horn will rotate from its rest or center position to one direction until it stops. If the servo horn s travel in one direction strains the linkage, adjusting the EPA to shorten the travel on that side can solve this problem. You can adjust either end independently of the other. Trim / Sub Trim. The car may veer to one side when the steering wheel is at rest. Steering trim adjusts the servo arm m s center so the car will go straight when the wheel is at rest. Instead of physically adjusting your servo horn, you may simply adjust your trim. Fig. 1 AM radio transmitter. Dual Rate. This feature allows you to change the throw for both sides at once. It switches to a lesser amount of steering. In slippery conditions, or a tight turn, or with a twitchy car, this feature allows the driver to steer with more control. Steering Exponential. This setting affects the rate of servo movement around the servo s center position. A small movement of the wheel can make a larger or smaller movement of the servo around its center position. If you have quick reflexes, you may set it so the car turns more quickly when you start turning the wheel (a positive exponential setting). Or you may prefer to turn the wheel more to make the car turn (a negative exponential setting). You write in which brand of radio you used for this race. Contact Airtronics, Futaba, Hitec, and KO Propo for radios, or see your local hobby dealer for radios and servos. 28

33 Electrical Steering Servo Under your radio direction, the servo horn pivots left or right, pushing/pulling the steering tie rods connecting between the servo and the wheels to help you steer your car. The servo (fig. 1) is usually included with your purchase of a radio transmitter. Popular servos include Airtronics, Cirrus, Futaba, Hitec, JR Radio, and KO Propo. What should I consider in a servo? Generally, for on road racing, you may want a servo with faster transit speed, because they will feel more responsive. We recommend a servo of no lower than 70 to 80 oz. of torque for the NTC3. The servo s torque is measured in oz./ in. (The more ounces, the stronger the servo.) Fig. 1 Steering servo. You write in which brand of steering servo you used in your vehicle. Contact Airtronics, Futaba, Hitec, and KO Propo for radios, or see your local hobby dealer for radios and servos. 29

34 Other Body The aerodynamic body protects your components and will influence your car s handling on different tracks. Your car accepts most 200mm touring car bodies. You write here which body you used. For 200mm touring car bodies, try your local hobby dealer 30

35 Other Clutch Adjustment When the engine revs increase, the clutch shoes, attached to the flywheel on the shaft inside the clutch bell, are thrown outward by centrifugal force. The shoes engage the inside of the clutch bell, which then turn the clutch bell to accelerate the car. By making changes to the clutch shoes, you can influence when your car engages. For instance, too quick of an engagement on a loose surface can cause wheelspin. The shorter the clutch shoes or the stiffer the clutch spring, the higher the engine must rev before the clutch shoes will engage. This is recommended for lower power engines. The stock (longer) length clutch shoes and stock clutch springs (softer) will have the quickest engagement. This is recommended for most track conditions and high power engines. Fig. 1 Clutch shoes on the flywheel, clutch bell removed. Optional three-shoe clutch shown. How do I know when to adjust the clutch? To decrease ease the clutch engagement, try drilling the clutch shoes. Drill a 1.5mm hole through each of the clutch shoes. Do not drill more than necessary. Your engine can get damaged from engine over-reving. For lower-power engines, drill the shoes or use the optional stiffer clutch spring. For high-power engines, use the stock uncut shoes or use the soft clutch spring. The stock clutch springs are recommended for most conditions. How do I adjust the clutch? You can change the number of shoes, alter their length, or change the clutch spring. You must remove the engine before you can adjust the clutch. 1. Pop off the linkage wire ball cup connected to the carb. 2. Loosen the pipe set screw and slide the pipe off the wire mount. 3. Pull the tube from the fuel tank adn pipe. 4. Unscrew the four engine mounting screws under the chassis. You must remove the clutch bell before you can adjust the clutch. 5. Remove the screw at the clutch bell end. 6. Slide off the clutch bell carefully, retaining the clutch bearing and shim. 7. Remove the springs, then the shoes. You may alter the shoes in two different ways: a. With a hobby knife, slice the end of each shoe 1/16 of an inch at a time until your target engagement has been met. b. With a hobby knife or Dremel tool, cut a circular cut. Cut a small segment at a time until your target engagement has been met. To re-assemble the clutch, just follow steps1-6 in reverse, meshing the gears properly. TIP Switch to a three-shoe clutch on low traction tracks. Also switch to three-shoe with engines having extremely high revs to smooth out the engagement. TIP Drilling a 1.5mm hole through each of the clutch shoes (side to side) lightens the shoes and simulates a stiffer clutch shoe spring. #2324, Non Pull Start 3-Shoe Flywheel #2325, Pull Start 3-Shoe Flywheel #2307, optional Clutch Springs You note how many shoes you used, and cut or uncut. You also note whether or not you used clutch springs. 31

36 Other Diff adjustment, front The front and rear differentials (diffs) allow some slippage. By changing the tightness of the diffs, you can adjust the amount of steering for the front and rear. How do I know which setting to use? Standard setting is -1/4 turn from tight position. The more you turn from the tightened position (loosening the diff), the more steering you will feel. A tighter diff setting gives the feeling of less steering. How do I adjust the front diff? Diff adjustment on the front is on the left side of the car (muffler side) 1. Remove the front bumper and caster clips. 2. Remove the screw holding in the hinge pin and slide out the hinge pin. 3. Remove the front left tire. 4. Fold down the upper arm and remove the axle from the diff outdrive. 5. Insert your Allen wrench in the outdrive. Hold the spur gears firmly and turn the wrench clockwise until tight. Back off counter-clockwise to the desired setting. 6. Follow the steps in reverse order to reassemble. Fig. 1 Insert your Allen wrench here to adjust the diff. TIP This is the last adjustment you would want to make. When all other efforts fail, then make adjustments to the diff. You note which setting you used, in fractions. You can put anywhere from -1/8 to -3/4 (in multiples of 1/8). 32

37 Other Diff adjustment, rear The front and rear differentials (diffs) allow some slippage. By changing the tightness of the diffs, you can adjust the amount of steering for the front and rear. How do I know which setting to use? Standard setting is -1/2 turn from tight position. The more you turn from the tightened position (loosening the diff), the less steering you will feel. A tighter diff setting will give the feeling of more steering. How do I adjust the rear diff? Diff adjustment on the rear is on the right side of the car (non-muffler side) 1. Remove the right rear wheel. 2. Remove the screw holding in the hinge pin and slide out the hinge pin. 3. Pop off the ball end at rear. 4. Fold down the upper arm and remove the axle from the diff outdrive. 5. Insert your Allen wrench in the outdrive. Turn wrench clockwise until tight. Back off counter-clockwise to the desired setting. 6. Follow the steps in reverse order to reassemble. Fig. 1 Insert your Allen wrench here to adjust the diff. You note which setting you used, in fractions. You can put anywhere from -1/8 to -3/4 (in multiples of 1/8). TIP This is the last adjustment you would want to make. When all other efforts fail, then make adjustments to the diff. 33

38 Other Front One Way The one way means the wheels will be controlled only one way--on power. They will free spin when off power. Also, when off throttle, the rear tires will supply all the braking. Using a one way will put more stress on the driveline (because there is no diff action) and make it easier to damage the driveline parts (especially under impact). How do I know when to use it? Switch to the front one way when you want more on power steering. You indicate that you used the front one way. Contents 2003 Associated Electrics, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Front axle differences Below shows the main differences among the standard diffs, one way, and solid axle: Standard One Way Solid Axle Front brakes yes no yes Lock on acceleration diff action locks locks (no slip) #1728, HD One Way Assembly #1729, TC3/NTC3 One Way Housing #1730, NTC3 Outdrive Cups #1732, HD One Way Gear #1733, HD One Way Shims 34

39 Other Pinion & Spur By making changes to your spur and pinion gears, you can influence your car s speed of acceleration and top end speed. To o your question of How do I go faster? the answer is found here! How do I know which combination to use? Use the following combination of pinion and spur gears in the 2 speed to maintain the correct gear mesh. 20/24 with 52/48 21/25 with 52/48 22/26 with 52/48 23/27 with 52/48 The bigger the final drive number, the faster accelera- tion you will get. The lower the number, the more top end it will have. To figure out the final drive number, do the math: spur gear divided by clutch bell pinion gear x transmission ratio of 2.5 = final drive ratio. Example: (54 divided by 20) x 2.5 = 6.75 (fastest acceleration, lowest top speed) (54 divided by 21) x 2.5 = 6.43 (next fastest acceleration) (54 divided by 22) x 2.5 = 6.14 (next fastest acceleration, more top speed) How do I change the spur gears? See the manual full instructions. You mark which spur/pinion gear combinations you used. 1st gear is the set of gears toward the rear of the car. 2nd gear is the set toward the front. spur gear pinion gear Fig. 1 Here are the spur and pinion gears. First gear of each is on the right (toward the rear). TIP The following have less difference in speed and acceleration than list at left. The following could be useful in small and tight tracks, where you usually run your car with single speed gearbox instead of a twospeed gearbox. (Figures are based on 4 gear separation. Factory Drivers sometimes go as high as a 6 gear split.) 50 or or 52 (2nd gear) (1st gear) 50/27 = /23 = /26 = /22 = /25 = /21 = /24 = /20 = /27 = /23 = 5/65 48/26 = /22 = /25 = /21 = /24 = /20 = 6.50 #2263, 48 tooth Spur Gear (2nd) #2264, 50 tooth Spur Gear (2nd) #2265, 52 tooth Spur Gear (1st) #2266, 54 tooth Spur Gear (1st) See your local hobby shop for more spur gears. 35

40 Other Solid Axle The solid axle, like the one way, does not use the diff action, but unlike the one way, it provides four-wheel braking capability. Using a solid axle will put more stress on the driveline (because there is no diff action) and make it easier to damage the driveline parts (especially under impact). How do I know when to use it? Used in the front, the solid axle works like a one way while on power, but you still retain four wheel braking capability. It s used for slippery conditions or for tight tracks with short, straight stretches. Used in the rear ear, on very high bite tracks it gives excellent acceleration with good on-power steering. But it is less stable coming out of the turn. You indicate that you used the solid axle. Contents 2003 Associated Electrics, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Front axle differences Below shows the main differences among the standard diffs, one way, and solid axle: Standard One Way Solid Axle Front brakes yes no yes Lock on acceleration diff action locks locks (no slip) #1404, Front/Rear Solid Axle with gears #3939, TC3/NTC3 One Way and Solid Axle Differential Gear 36

41 Other 2-Speed Shift Adjustment When your car has a single-speed transmission, you may be geared for acceleration (quick start-up), top end (the top speed you could attain), or some point in between. With a 2-speed, you broaden the range of useable adjustments. When you are in first gear, your 2-speed may be geared for acceleration. When you shift into second, you can be more favorably geared toward top end. By increasing or decreasing the spring tension in the 2- speed s clutch shoes you can change the shift point from first to second gear to take advantage of this broader gearing range at strategic points in the race. When would I change the 2-speed? Standard setting is both black screws all the way in and backed off equally 3 1/2 turns counterclockwise. Most of your adjustments will be between 3 and 3 1/2 turns. Make your adjustments in 1/8 turn amounts as follows. If you want the car to shift into second gear later, tighten down both screws equally 1/8 of a turn to increase the spring tension. If you want the car to shift into second gear sooner, loosen both screws equally 1/8 of a turn to decrease the spring tension. Contents 2003 Associated Electrics, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Fig. 1 Adjusting the 2-speed, steps 1-3. How do I adjust the 2-speed? As with most adjustments in this Guide, turn off your engine. 1. Lift the car and hold the spur gear in place with your thumb (fig. 1, #1), the bell opening facing up (fig. 1, #3). 2. Turn the rear wheel slowly (fig. 1, #2). 3. Watch for the adjustment screw to appear in the opening of the 2-speed bell (fig. 1, #3). It will be a black screw, at an angle. When looking at the front of the 2-speed, there will be a number 1 and 2 on the shoes where the adjustment screws are located. Look and remember which number you adjusted first so you do not adjust this shoe again. 3. Insert your Allen wrench and adjust as needed (fig. 2, #4). Do not overtighten the springs. 4. Remove Allen wrench and turn the rear wheel again and repeat for the second set screw, adjusting it the same amount. You don t mark the shift adjustment on the setup sheet. Fig. 2 Adjusting the 2-speed, step 4. TIP After running your car for a tank of fuel, remove your two-speed housing and clean any oil or residue from inside the housing and outside the shoes to ensure 37 consistent shifting.

42 Other Weight You can balance or increase the chassis weight by adding lead weights (fig. 1) to the car. Why should I add weight? To bring the kit up to any minumum race weight requirements. To counter any battery and motor imbalance by adding weights to the other side of the car. Add weight if you need extra steering on slick or high traction tracks. Your car will change direction slower. Not used for rough surfaces. 7 grams weight is standard. Contents 2003 Associated Electrics, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Fig. 1 Add these break-off weights to your NTC3. How do I add weight? The weight can come in the form of a lead stick that has been pre-perforated in small segments (fig. 1) that you break off and add to the car. The weight is fixed to the car with pre-attached sticky tape or servo tape. You mark here how much weight you added to the car in grams or ounces. In the picture you mark where you added the weight. #1595, Factory Team Chassis Lead Weights 38

43 Other Wing Your wing (fig. 1) aids in rear traction. For instance, you can slide the wing back for more rear traction. Some aftermarket wings allow more adjustments. Wings are a vital part of the car s stability. The angle you place the wing and how much of the wing you cut will cause the car to handle differently. Also the canards, which are sides of the wings, can change the handling based on how tall and long they are. So you have a lot of variables that you can play with on the wings for different handling characteristics. You indicate if you used a wing and what hole mount position was used. Fig. 1 The wing usually comes with the body. 39

44 Engine/Carb/Pipe Carburetor Two kinds of carbs are available for nitro engine R/C kits, rotary, fig. 1, and slide valve. What is the difference between the two? Rotary carbs are most common on.12 and.15 engines. When running at lower speeds the barrel is considered to be less responsive. At full throttle, there is more hardware in the venture; that slightly reduces maximum airflow and, therefore, maximum power output. Slide carbs. Instead of having a hole through its center section, the barrel is virtually solid. To regulate airflow, it slides to allow air to flow past its end rather than through it. The advantage of a slide carb is that there s always a smoother path for the air flow, regardless of throttle position, and this maximizes power. Fig. 1 Rotary carb shown. You note which type of carb you used, rotation or slide valve. Carb settings are not noted on the setup sheet. For more about carb settings, please see your engine manual. Carb restrictor Carb restrictors restrict the amount of air entering the carburetor. Carb restrictors, fig. 2, can be used to help control the amount of wheel spin coming out of corners, resulting in a car that s easier to drive, but top speed will be reduced. The carb restrictor goes where shown at arrow. If you remove the carb restrictor in the RTR NTC3, you must compensate for the extra air intake by richening the fuel mixture. Which carb restrictor do I use? Use a smaller hole carb restrictor if you need to control your car better coming out of turns by reducing wheel spin. How do I change the carb restrictor? By removing the air filter parts, inserting the restrictor where located in fig. 2, and replacing the air filter parts. Fig. 2 Restrictor in AE.12 engine supplied with the NTC3 RTRs. You mark which size restrictor you used, if any. 40

45 Engine/Carb/Pipe Engine Brand & Size Engines come in fixed sizes. The.12 and.15 sizes refers to the capacity in cc s (cubic centimeters, the space occupied by the piston and sleeve). Engines also come in different crankshaft lengths within each size; the NTC3 only accepts engines with short or SG style crankshafts. How do I know which engine to use? The Nitro TC3 will work with:.12 or.15 non-big block engines. Short crank or SG style cranks. Slide or rotary carbs. Pull or non-pull starts. Some engines have proprietary size cranks. You will need to talk to those engine manufacturers to get spacers, collets, etc., that will mount the engine properly. If you get an engine with a long crank, you will need to cut it and use the supplied #2312 clutch nut adapter. fig. 1 Associated pull start engine. You note which size of engine you used,.12 or.15. You note what brand of engine you used. Converting to side exhaust If you have kit #2031 (non pull start), rear exhaust manifold and pipe are included. If you want to use a side exhaust pull start engine, you'll need: #2340 pull start engine mounts #2323 pull start flywheel #2343 side exhaust manifold #7730 side exhaust pipe #2344, muffler mount wire Converting to rear exhaust If you have kit #2030 or #2040 (pull start), side exhaust manifold and pipe are included. If you want to use a rear exhaust non pull start engine, you'll need: #2341 non pull engine mounts #2322 non pull flywheel #2350, rear exhaust header #2353, rear exhaust muffler #2357, manifold spring #2358, muffler mount wire 41 TIP Four rules of engine tuning (by Paris Racing) 1 Rich is good. Blue smoke should always be coming from the exhaust. 2 Always set the high-speed needle first. 3 Never try to tune a cold engine wait for it to get up to operating temperature. 4 Always begin your engine tuning from a rich highspeed needle setting. Never start out with a lean setting. #1710, Factory Team NTC3 Non Pull Engine Mounts, blue alum., pr. #2312, Clutch Nut Adapter #2322, NTC3 Non Pull Flywheel, 2-shoe type #2324, NTC3 Non Pull Flywheel, 3-shoe type #2341, NTC3 Non Pull Engine Mounts, pr.

46 Engine/Carb/Pipe Engine Temperature Your engine temperature can indicate proper or improper tuning of your engine. Overheating will shorten the life of your engine. You should follow your engine manufacturer s recommendations as to temperature; 220 F is usually within the range of many recommendations. The late Ron Paris of Paris Racing recommended that all of the following conditions of a good engine MUST be met BEFORE any temperature can be considered correct. If these conditions are met without any engine problems, then take the temperature and mark it on the setup sheet. 1. There must be a visible trail of smoke when accelerating from EVERY corner. 2. The idle is stable. 3. The glow plug wire stays somewhat shiny and its coil stays round (not distorted). 4. The engine performance is good. How do I change the temperature? Many factors affect engine temperature. Not all of them can be changed (such as the outdoor temperature!), but should nevertheless be taken into consideration. Here are just a few factors: Your carb settings affect the temperature. The carburetor mixes the air and fuel before they go into the engine. Letting in more fuel than air results in a rich setting (turning the high speed fuel mixture screw so the opening is wider). Lesser fuel results in a lean setting. Your fuel contains oil which lubricates the crankshaft; if the setting is too lean (not enough lubrication), then the engine can overheat. It is better to err on the rich side and gradually go leaner. The outdoor temperature will affect your engine: Hotter temperatures will let in hot air, which may overheat your engine. Change your carb settings for this, making it richer. Elevation makes a difference: The amount of air entering your carb will be rarer in the mountain tops than at sea level, so you may get more fuel than you think. The percentage of your fuel makes a difference. A lower percentage makes for a cooler engine, but lowers your top end. A properly tuned pipe will help your engine to stay cooler better than a poorly made or chosen pipe. This is because the back pressure in the tuned pipe, rebounding from your engine, is sucking the hot exhaust away from your engine. It s hard to beat the Associated tuned pipe. Fig. 1 You can measure your engine temperature with a temperature gauge or gun available at your local hobby stores. You note your engine temperature. You measure the temperature with a special sensor, fig. 1, made for the purpose. See your local hobby shop for temperature gauges 42

47 Engine/Carb/Pipe Fuel The percentage of nitro mix (such as 20%) refers to how much combustible nitro the glow fuel contains. The higher the percentage, the more combustable, the more rpms possible (because the greater combustion drives the piston harder), but the more quickly your engine wears. (WARN- ING: Do not use airplane and helicopter fuels; they may not have the necessary oil types and ratios for R/C cars.) Fuel mixture, therefore, is an area of tuning for top speed and engine temperature. Contents 2003 Associated Electrics, Inc. All Rights Reserved. When do I change the fuel mixture? 20% is standard among many fuel manufacturers. (Associated does not recommend racers mix their own fuels to change the mixture. For safety, buy pre-mixed fuels.) Always follow the recommendations that came with your fuel. For more top speed, try going higher, but your engine wear will increase. For an easier to drive car, go lower in percentage, but your top end will decrease. How do I know what fuel to use? Improper fuel can cause hard starting, poor performance, and excessive wear on the engine. The fuels we recommend for R/C car use are: O Donnell Racing Fuel, Blue Thunder Race Formula, Trinity, Byron s Originals, and Wild Cat fuel. Caution: Do not use any type of airplane fuels. Airplane fuels may not have the necessary oil types andratios needed for R/C car engines. There are many other racing fuels than those listed above; however, they must meet two requirements: 1. The fuel must contain at least 18% of both castor and synthetic oils. 2. You should try to keep the nitro (nitromenthane) between 10% to 20%. The best fuels also contain rust and corrosion inhibitors, anti-wear agents, anti-foaming agents, and lubrication additives. You note which glow fuel mixture you used and who manufactured the fuel. TIP Cleaning your engine. Oily sludge is a fact of life in gas R/C. The oil comes from the oil/nitro mixture of your fuel. It doesn t burn, but lubricates the barrel chamber and then gets spewed out. After running, clean your car with Nitro Cleaner, available at your local hobby stores, or isopopyl alcohol. TIP After running your car for a tank of fuel, remove your two-speed housing and clean any oil or residue from inside the housing and outside the shoes to ensure consistent shifting. Please contact your hobby shop for availability of fuel. 43

48 Engine/Carb/Pipe Glow Plug The purpose of the glow plug, fig. 2, is to ignite the fuel in the engine. The battery-operated glow plug igniter heats the glow plug wire coil. When the fuel enters the chamber it is ignited by the glowing coil. Each explosion drives the engine piston and thus your shaft, accelerating your car. The plug wire remains glowing red hot by the continuing internal combustion of the fuel. The glow plug wire type provides several ways you can tune your engine s performance. When do I change the glow plug? Associated drivers find that the #MC59 McCoy glow plug works well under many types of conditions, from low altitude to high, from low temperature to high. It comes highly recommended as a great, all-around glow plug. You change your glow plug before performance drops off or before it harms the engine. Here are some tips from Paris Racing: If wire and surrounding bottom of plug is dry, wire distorted, then change the plug. If wire and surrounding bottom of plug is dry, wire broken and distorted or burnt up, then change the plug. A gray plug can still operate well. But after it has totally gone gray performance can start to fall off. To test, just put in a new plug and if there is no difference in performance, save the gray one or put it back in. If your engine does not feel or run right, try a new plug before making a major tuning change elsewhere. Fig. 1 Glow plug installed. Fig. 2 Glow plug and copper gasket. How do I change the plug? Unscrew it from the engine head, and screw another one in. If your plug is not screwed in tightly enough, the engine vibrations can cause it to back off. Your engine may sputter unexpectedly and die because of the decreased pressure. Make sure the copper gasket is on. You write in which glow plug type you used. #MC59, McCoy Glow Plug (medium/cold plug) 44

49 Engine/Carb/Pipe Muffler/Tuned Pipe The tuned pipe, fig. 1, does more than muffle the roar that angers your neighbors at 2 a.m. As the exhaust exits your engine through the manifold and into the pipe, it backs up in the pipe and causes back pressure toward the engine. This back pressure creates several useful tuning possibilities for the engine, which are modified by the shape of the tuned pipe. The pipe shape can determine your top end and other features. For instance, a longer pipe can increase your top end. A more tapered pipe can remove some of the punch, resulting in smoother acceleration. The exhaust also sets up a pressure that is forced through the tubing into your gas tank, which helps force gas into the engine more efficiently, resulting in more rpms than without the tuned pipe. Thus, a set of tuned pipes for different racing conditions is a must for serious racing. Your pipe should match your engine type. A side-exhaust engine requires a side-exhaust pipe, fig. 2, and a rear-exhaust engine requires a rear-exhaust pipe, fig. 2. Fig. 1 Side exhaust pipe installed. How do I know which pipe is best? Always start with Associated s standard pipe, making changes to other areas of the car first. Use a torque-tuned muffler, fig. 3, when on short t or technical tracks where you are on and off power a lot. Use an RPM-tuned muffler, fig. 3, when on big tracks with sweeping corners. Also try the dual chamber pipes for this. How do I change to another pipe? Fig. 2 Side exhaust pipe. Rear exhaust pipe. 1. Remove the fuel line from the pipe. 2. Loosen the set screw and slide it off the wire mount. 3. Cut off the wire tie on the other end and pull off the pipe. 4. Put another pipe into the silicone tubing and fasten in place with another wire tie. 5. Slide the other end onto the wire mount and tighten the set screw. 6. Insert the fuel line into the pipe. You write in which pipe you used, whether Standard (Associated) or another pipe. Conversion notes: If you have: #2030 or #2040 (pull start), side exhaust manifold and pipe are included. If you want to use a rear exhaust non pull start engine, you'll need: #2341 non pull engine mounts #2322 non pull flywheel #2350, rear exhaust header #2353, rear exhaust muffler #2357, manifold spring Fig. 3 Torque-tuned pipe. RPM-tuned pipe. TIP The shorter the pipe is to your manifold, the more torque you will have. The longer the pipe is from your manifold, the more top speed your car will have. #1755, NTC3 Rear Exhaust Blue Muffler #1756, NTC3 Rear Exhaust Natural Muffler #1757, NTC3 Rear Exhaust Black Muffler #1763, NTC3 Rear Exhaust Blue Dual Chamber Muffler #1764, NTC3 Rear Exhaust Natural Dual Chamber Muffler #1765, NTC3 Rear Exhaust Black Dual Chamber Muffler #1771, Torque-tuned Side Exhaust Blue Muffler #1772, Torque-tuned Side Exhaust Natural Muffler #1773, Torque-tuned Side Exhaust Black Muffler #1774, RPM-tuned Side Exhaust Blue Muffler #1775, RPM-tuned Side Exhaust Natural Muffler #1776, RPM-tuned Side Exhaust Black Muffler #2353, NTC3 Rear Exhaust Muffler (kit std.) #2354, Dual Chamber Muffler #7730, Torque-tuned Side Exhaust Muffler (kit std.) #7731, RPM-tuned Side Exhaust Muffler 45

50 Engine/Carb/Pipe Starter Nitro engines, fig. 1, are started when rotational pressure is applied to the engine flywheel. The flywheel drives the piston to suck the fuel and air mixture through the carburetor into the engine. Once there, the glow plug wire ignites the fuel and drives the piston from that point on. This initial startup is accomplished either by pulling on a handle (with short, fast 4-6 inch long pulls), or by a starter box (fig. 2) which houses an electric-powered rotating rubber wheel that you push the car's flywheel against. The spinning rubber wheel then turns the engine's flywheel and starts your engine. So, engines come in pull start versions and non pull start versions. How do I know which starter type to use? The convenient pull start version, fig. 1, means that you can start your engine anywhere, and you would not need carry a starter box to start the engine. Adding the pull start system directly to the engine, however, means more wear and tear on the engine. It is a little more expensive than the non pull start engines, but you do not have the added expense of a starter box if you don't want to purchase one. If you choose to use the starter box later, you can do so with no extra parts needed. Non pull start has its own advantages for the racer. Without the pull start feature, the engine sits lower, improving the center of gravity and thus the car's handling. And without the pull start, the engine is lighter. With a non pull start engine, you must purchase a starter box, fig. 2, to turn the flywheel. The starter is powered by either two 6 cell battery packs or a 12 volt gel cell. In some cases adapter cables allow you to use the battery from your automobile. You note which starter you have, pull start or non pull start. fig. 1 Pull start engines are easy to recognize by their handle. fig. 2 You will need a starter box if you use a non pull start engine. fig. 3 Pull starter handle with short, quick jerks. Point exhaust outlet away from you when starting. 46 TIP You may need to prime the carb (get fuel into the carb for quicker starting) if you have not started the engine in a while. The best way to prime the carburetor is to put your car on the starter box and hold your finger over the exhaust hole. Do this just briefly. This will push just enough fuel into the carb to allow it to start.

51 General Setup Track Conditions Complete Tuning Guide: NTC3 Note carefully your type of track conditions, then go back over this Guide and look for underlined terms that match your track. Note what changes are recommended and get ahead of the competition already! Also, paying particular attention to track conditions will help others understand why you deviated from the standard setup, or used it successfully. Note any track layout description (length, etc.) if your track layout is changed frequently. Tracks also change depending on the weather, being damp or dry, and such information omitted may cost you the next race if you use the same settings when the track changes from dry to damp. Setup sheets without this track information is practically useless, because the whole idea of setups is to hook up the vehicle to race to its fullest potential on those track conditions. You mark here the type of track you drove on. Contents 2003 Associated Electrics, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Race Comments Every racer should get a feeling for why they finished where they did. Some reasons are obvious, others not so obvious. You write here your outcome of the race. Did you TQ with these settings? Did you win, but only because the racer who always beat you in the past did not show? You may want to note these details. In which Main did you finish? Was it tough competition or smooth sailing? What observations can you write here that will help you race next time? These comments will help you and those who see your setup sheet. Car Comments Every driver has to judge their vehicle s overall handling after all the settings have been made and put to the test. You should be able to express those observations on paper. You write here how your vehicle handled overall. Also note any new hop-ups you were experimenting with, and what impact they had on the car s performance. What made you happy about the car? How were you dissatisfied? What problems came up that you would want to consult a more experienced racer about? 47

52 General Setup Getting the Best Setup Complete Tuning Guide: NTC3 The following is how expert racers dial their cars to the track. Tuning changes combined with practice, practice, and more practice makes a winner. Only make changes that you can justify. Make a copy of the blank setup sheet and date it. Copy down the standard settings from the Contents page. Adjust your NTC3 kit so it matches the standard setup. Fill out the Track Conditions section of the setup. Mark the page as Standard Setup. Put the setup sheet aside and consider the following tips from the pros. Before you change any of your settings, make sure you can get around the track without crashing. None of your setup changes will work if you cannot stay on the track. Your goal at this point is to get consistent lap times, not to go fast. Your lap times may be inconsistent because of poor control. So get a watch that counts laps and have a friend time your laps until they are consistent. Keep notes of your lap times so you can check your progress. You may note your best times on the back of your current setup sheet. After your lap times are consistent, focus on your tire type. What are the winning racers using? Read the Wheels & Tires sections for basic guidelines on tire choice. Change your tires if necessary, mark the change on your setup sheet, and practice. Are your lap times the same, better or worse? If your lap times are better, then you have either become a better driver or your new tires have made a difference. Once your lap times are consistent, you can start making the tuning changes in this booklet. Make changes one at a time, checking your lap times each time before you make another change. Read the Guide carefully and thoroughly to make sure your changes match the conditions of the track, and that you are addressing real problems. Mark each change on your setup sheet. When you have made real progress, you may want to make up a new setup sheet with those changes. Put it in a safe place; it can be used again later if you race on a track with similar conditions. Contents 2003 Associated Electrics, Inc. All Rights Reserved. 48

53 General Setup Maintenance Your NTC3 will give you many hours of trouble-free operation when you regularly check for wear and tear. You should periodically check all the moving parts of the car, especially before a big race. Here is a sample checklist in alphabetical order. A-arms, front and rear. Check for cracks from crashes. Make sure arms move smoothly; remove dirt build-up. Make sure hinge pins are still straight. Air filter. Replace air filter when it obviously looks dirty. Ball cups. Check if they need replacing. Clear the ball ends of dirt. Apply ball end dust covers to minimize dirt. Batteries. Check their charge, connections, and mounting. Body. Check that body clips are not missing, and body is not touching tires. Brake parts. Replace worn brake pad. Bushings and bearings. Replace worn bushings and bearings. Oil slightly worn bearings. 2-speed Clutch. Adjust so it s shifting properly. Check that engine clutch shoes are clean and springs are working properly. Glow plug. Replace when burnt. Fuel tank. Check for leaks and dirt, for good seals around O-rings. Fuel tubing. Check for leaks. See that they are kept from being cut by or interfering with other parts. Radio system. Check batteries. Receiver and servos. Check for firm mounting. Screws. Because of the vibration of gas engines, check the chassis and other critical screws for tightness after every run. (Screw tips: Apply locking compound for screws in metal. Clean out the screw head opening before inserting your driver to minimize wear. Replace the kit s L-shaped Allen wrenches with good drivers like the Factory Team Allen Driver Set #6980. Can t get screws out? With a Dremel tool, cut a slot in the screw head and use a flat head screwdriver to remove it.) Shocks. Check for consistent dampening all around. Refill with new oil. At that time, check and replace worn inner shock seal parts. Steering blocks/hub carriers. Check for cracks from crashes. Make sure they move smoothly; remove dirt build-up. Wires. Check for any frayed wires or loose connections. Contents 2003 Associated Electrics, Inc. All Rights Reserved. 49

54 NTC3 FAQs General Questions Contents 2003 Associated Electrics, Inc. All Rights Reserved. What do I need to install a non pull start engine? Non pull start engine #2341 non pull start mounts #2322 non pull start flywheel Contact the engine manufacturer if you want to convert the engine itself. Where can I find a track to race my car? Go to our web site and click on Hobby Shops & Tracks, Where do I find painting ideas for a new body? Try the Racer Spotlight online for painting inspiration. How can I get the latest general products catalog? Go to our web site and click on Associated Products, then scroll down. Where e can I find other racer s setup sheets? Go to our web site and click on Kit Setups & Tips, then scroll down. Where can I find more bodies and tires? Your local hobby store or track should carry a complete selection of each. What does AE mean? It stands for Associated Electrics, Inc., our company name. How can I make my car go faster? Change to a larger tooth 32 pitch clutch bell or smaller 32 pitch spur gear. What size bodies fit my NTC3? 200mm touring car bodies. What is the lowest possible final drive ratio using the current available clutchbells and spur gears with the 2.5 drivetrain ratio? The lowest is 6.75 with a 54/20. The tightest: 4.44, 48/27. 50

55 NTC3 FAQs Upgrading the NTC3 RTR Contents 2003 Associated Electrics, Inc. All Rights Reserved. What do I need to replace my axles with MIP CVDs? #3886 TC3/NTC3 CVD stub axle with hardware #3888 Factory Blue TC3/NTC3 aluminum CVD bones What do I need to change from a single speed to a 2-speed? #2285 NTC3 two-speed, unassembled. #2284 NTC3 two-speed, assembled. What other engines will fit in my car? Almost any.12 or.15 short shaft or SG crank non-big block glow fuel engine designed for R/C cars. What do I need to install a solid axle? #1704 NTC3 solid axle assembly. What do I need to install a front one-way? #1705 NTC3 front one-way assembly. I can t seem to get my two speed to shift. Once you ran the car did you go back and follow the racer tip on page 8 section 9 of the manual? Do that first then make sure you do not over tighten the springs that are inside the two speed shoes, then when adjusting the two speed, the normal spectrum for adjustments is between 3 to 3 ½ turns the closer to 3 turns the later the shift point, while at the closer to 3 ½ the earlier the shift point. Is the composite CVD shaft just as good as the aluminum one? Do not use the composite CVD shafts on the nitro car, they are for the electric car only. I want to cut the crank on my AE.15. Will this affect the warranty? The AE.15 will not fit in the NTC3. There is no clutch nut adapter made for the AE.15 crank. Can a Nitro TC3 be modified with the TC3 Rally? You cannot use the TC3 Rally conversion for the NTC3. While testing the servo functions I noticed that the steering will not zero out after turning the wheels in either direction. Check your pivot balls and make sure they are not too tight. Also center your steering trim before you snap on the servo arm. Check the swing rack so it moves freely and that none of the steering assembly is bound. I noticed there is a lot of steering play in my NTC3. What can I do to solve this problem? You can put a stiffer spring up in front and/or use a front sway bar. Turning down your radio s dual rate will also help out a lot. You can change to a heavier tension spring (#6587) for the servo saver. How do I prime the engine? Put your finger over the exhaust hole on your pipe or over the carb opening, and pull the pull start a couple of times (or bump the engine on the starter box.) 51

56 Online Resources Complete Tuning Guide: NTC3 Start your internet connection and click on the button to access these helpful links. WEB Reference Pages Info on the latest Nitro TC3 kit releases. Uup-to-date catalogs and exploded drawings. Kit instruction manual. Setup sheets. Factory Team High Performance hop-ups. New Products. Engine Related Links Nitro Troubleshooting Guide, including slide carb installation and engine break-in tips (originally for the RC10GT truck, much info here may be helpful in your case too.) Engine instruction manual. Lifetime Engine Replacement Policy. Quick Start Guide and troubleshooting tips. Engine Q&A. How-To o Instructions How to troubleshoot and break in your nitro engine. How to remove and oil the AE engine s One Way bearing. How to hook up the throttle return spring #7562 on your engine. How to mount a slide carb on your engine in the NTC3. How to install the 2 Speed kit in the NTC3. How to install MIP CVDs in the NTC3. How to cut the crankshaft for your GT or NTC3. How to install the front blade anti-roll kit on the NTC3. Set up your NTC3 brake/throttle linkage correctly (for rotary or slide carbs). How to install a rear exhaust muffler in the NTC3. Other TC3/NTC3 Talk Forum. Spring Rate Chart. Gear Ratio Chart for the NTC3. Wallpaper & movies. Contents 2003 Associated Electrics, Inc. All Rights Reserved. 52

57 General Setup Setting the Tweak The idea of setting chassis tweak is to get all four tires pushing down with equal weight. To set the tweak of a 4WD independent suspension kit, use a tool like the MIP Tweak Station (fig. 1). Lifting the tires with a blade to check for tweak as you would for a fixed-axle pan car would work, but every little droop measurement and shock must be perfect. So we recommend the Tweak Station. 1. First check to make sure your car suspension does not bind in any way, and that your turnbuckles are at proper length. Disconnect any sway bars (fig. 2). 2. Place your car onto the tweak machine, carefully centering the car tires according to the tick marks on the stationary and rocker beams (fig. 3). It does not matter which direction the car faces. For these instructions, we ll assume you put the front end on the rocker beam. Fig. 1 MIP Tweak Station. 3. Push down and let off on the middle of the front and rear shock towers several times to loosen them (fig. 4). 4. Check the bubble level (fig. 5). If the bubble is centered, then the front of the car is tweaked correctly. No adjustments are necessary. 5. If the bubble floats to the left, then adjust the front shock spring on the other side, the right (fig. 6), to compensate for tweak. (This means that you add a preload spacer between the shock hex portion and spring, or turn the nut on the threaded shock to push the spring downward.) If the bubble floats left, then adjust the front shock spring on the right. Fig. 2 Unhook anti-roll bar connections. 6. Turn the car around and do the other end to ensure both the front and rear are tweaked level. Re-attach the sway bar, being careful not to upset the tweak. Fig. 3 Centered on stand. Fig. 5 Bubble at left. Fig. 6 Make first change at opposite corner from bubble position. Wtih bubble at left, car pointing forward, make change at rear right of car as shown. Fig. 4 Loosen the suspension Several manufacturers make products to adjust tweak accurately

58 ) EC? D = I I EI D A HA 2 HE J K F =? A F = C A B = J I K HB=? A 2 =? A 6 +! F = C A BH J B? = H J M = H@ JD A M H@ H J 2 =? A JEHA I K JI E@ A J F E A I B H J A E H> JJ E A I B H J A E! ) EC A BJ? D = I I EI C A F = H= A J E A = J A BJ A A F E C JEHA I = C = E I JJD A E A I M = C JEHA C A J? D A? = C A BJEHA I = C = E I J= C A B E A I # K I JJK H > K? A I K JE JEHA I = HA F = H= A M EJD E A I 9 D A JEHA I = HA F A HBA? J O F = H= A J E A I A EJD A HI E@ A JD A I F A? J A E D = I > A A =? D EA L ) I I? E= - A? JHE? I 1?! # & # + E =? ) L A + I J= A I = + ) ' $ $

59 Driver Contents FRONT SUSPENSION CASTER CAMBER TOE-IN RIDE HEIGHT mm DROOP BUMP STEER SPACERS SETUP SHEET for the Nitro TC3 Click on blue text to bring up links ANTI-ROLL BAR none 3960 kit 1717 front blade kit blade setting ACKERMAN STD (3857 ball ends) opt. (6270 ball ends) DRIVESHAFTS MIP other Track / City Event Date FRONT SHOCKS BODY threaded other SPRING (color) OIL wt PISTONS # SHAFTS unobtainium STD TOWER MOUNTING inner hole middle hole outer hole CAMBER LINK inner hole outer hole ARM MOUNTING inner hole outer hole REAR SUSPENSION CAMBER TOE-IN ANTI-ROLL BAR none 3960 kit REAR SHOCKS BODY threaded other SPRING (color) TOWER MOUNTING inner hole middle hole outer hole RIDE HEIGHT mm DROOP DRIVESHAFTS MIP other OIL wt PISTONS # CAMBER LINK inner hole outer hole SHAFTS unobtainium STD ARM MOUNTING inner hole outer hole OTHER FUEL BRAND BODY FRONT TIRES NITRO 20% % WING FRONT INSERTS ENGINE BRAND RADIO FRONT WHEELS pull start non pull start ST. SERVO REAR TIRES ENG. TEMP. THR. SERVO REAR INSERTS CARB rotary slide valve 1st GEAR PINION / SPUR / REAR WHEELS CARB RESTRICTOR none 2nd GEAR PINION / SPUR / TIRE ADDITIVE none TRACK WIDTH STD (gauge) (in./mm) ONE-WAY none front SOLID AXLE front rear FRONT DIFF SETTING Single Speed: PINION / SPUR / CLUTCH 2 shoes 3 shoes CLUTCH SHOES not cut trimmed WEIGHTS none (oz./gm) REAR DIFF SETTING TUNED PIPE CLUTCH SPRINGS STD other GLOW PLUG TYPE TRACK CONDITIONS SURFACE smooth bumpy TRACTION low medium high COMPOSITION concrete asphalt carpet specify: NOTES RACE COMMENTS MAIN FINISH QUALIFYING POS. NOTES CAR COMMENTS NOTES

60 Driver SETUP SHEET for the Team Associated Ver. 2 FRONT SUSPENSION CASTER 6 9 ANTI-ROLL BAR 12 CAMBER TOE-IN none 3960 kit 1717 front blade kit blade setting ACKERMAN RIDE HEIGHT mm STD (3857 ball ends) opt. (6270 ball ends) DROOP DRIVESHAFTS BUMP STEER SPACERS MIP other Track / City Event BLANK SETUP, VER. 2 Date AUG FRONT SHOCKS BODY threaded other SPRING (color) OIL wt PISTONS # SHAFTS unobtainium STD TOWER MOUNTING inner hole middle hole outer hole CAMBER LINK inner hole outer hole ARM MOUNTING inner hole outer hole REAR SUSPENSION CAMBER TOE-IN RIDE HEIGHT mm DROOP ANTI-ROLL BAR none 3960 kit DRIVESHAFTS MIP other REAR SHOCKS BODY threaded other SPRING (color) OIL wt PISTONS # TOWER MOUNTING inner hole middle hole outer hole CAMBER LINK upper hole middle hole lower hole SHAFTS unobtainium STD ARM MOUNTING upper hole lower hole WASHERS # size OTHER FUEL BRAND BODY FRONT TIRES NITRO 20% % RADIO FRONT INSERTS ENGINE BRAND ST. SERVO FRONT WHEELS pull start non pull start THR. SERVO REAR TIRES ENG. TEMP. 1st GEAR PINION / SPUR / REAR INSERTS CARB rotary slide valve 2nd GEAR PINION / SPUR / REAR WHEELS CARB RESTRICTOR none Single Speed: PINION / SPUR / TIRE ADDITIVE none TRACK WIDTH STD (gauge) (in./mm) ONE-WAY none SOLID AXLE front GEAR DIFF front front rear rear CLUTCH 2 shoes 3 shoes CLUTCH SHOES not cut cut CLUTCH SPRINGS STD other WEIGHTS none (oz./gm) GEAR DIFF GREASE wt. front wt. rear GLOW PLUG TYPE TUNED PIPE TRACK CONDITIONS SURFACE smooth bumpy TRACTION low medium high COMPOSITION concrete asphalt carpet specify: NOTES RACE COMMENTS MAIN FINISH QUALIFYING POS. NOTES CAR COMMENTS NOTES

61 ) 5 0 ) 6 5 A A C E A I D = L A C? H= I D = BJI M D E? D K I J> A? K JI D HJA HJ BEJE ) I I? E= I EJH EJI I K? D = I JD A 4 + / 6 EJH 6 +! 6 D A I A E I JHK? JE I HEC E = O B E JD A / 6 E I JHK? JE = K = M EHA? JO K I JA F > O I JA F D M J? K JJD A? H= I D = BJI = BA O 1JA I A HA A J E> A HHA E B H? K J BBM D A A 9 ) 4 1 / HO K H M I = BA JO M A HA? K I E C O JD A BE> A HHA E B H? M D A A I JJD A? K J BBI J A I 6 D A? K J BBI J A I? = I D = JJA = K I A E K HO 5 = BA JO C = I I A I HC C C A I 1 I J= JD A BE> A HHA E B H? K J BBM D A A JD A, HA A J F K J O K HI = BA JO C = I I A I, HA A E> A HHA E B H? K J BBM D A A JD A C = I A C E A E I J= A % $ & H % $ % I F =? A H A % $ &? A J O K H % $ H % $ B O M D A A 6 D A B O M D A A M E BEJ L A HJD A? A JJD A O = HA = J= F A M C A BEJ M E I J= JD A % $? K J BB K JI JD A JD HA EI = M = O BH JD A B O M D A A = H JD A BJD A? K J BB K JM D A HA O K = HA C E C J? K JJD A? H= JD A HA L A JD A? K J BB K B O M D A A % $ % 2 E?? I F =? A H H 2 =? A JD A A C E A E I E@ A = F = I JE? > = C 2 K I D JD A BJD A? H= I D = BJJD H K C D JD A F = I JE? > = C K JE JD A BJD A? H= I D = BJF H A I JD H K C D JD A > = C = A I K HA JD A D A EI JEC D J= H JD A I A F = HJI J F HA L A J A J= I D = L E C I BH C E C E J JD A A C E A 6 = A O K HJE A JD EI I JA F + K JJD A? H= I D = BJ= JJD A = H M EJD O K H, HA A J, A > K HJD A 9 ) 4 1 / A L A H M H M EJD = F M A HJ M EJD K JM A = HE C I = BA JO C = I I A I H C C C A I = A I K HA = F = HJI BO K O = O? JD E C = HA = M = O BH JD A, HA A J JD A? K JJE C = HA = J F HA L A JE K HO ) BJA HO K D = L A? K JJD A? H= I D = BJ? A = BB= JD A A J= I D = L E C I BH JD A F = HJ 6 D A HA L A JD A A C E A BH JD A > = C 6 = A JD A % $!? K J? D K I A A EBJD A? K J? D K JM E JD HA J JD A? H= I D = BJA = I E O 1B J JD A F K JO K HA C E A E J JD A F = I JE? > = C J F H JA? JEJBH A J= I D = L E C I M EJD JD A? H= I D = BJI JE? E C K J BE A HC JD A? H= I D = BJ= EJJ A BH JD A J F BJD A BEHI JJD HA I, J@ = = C A JD A JD HA I 4 A E I J= O K HB O M D A A K J? D K = F JA H % $ &? A J I J? 2 E??? A J? A I M EJD A C E A % $ & I F =? A H I E L A H? H B O M D A A % $ F K I J= HJ % $ F K I J= HJ % $? K J BB K J 6 - ) ) ) 6 -,! # & # + E =? ) L A + I J= A I = + ) ' $ $ F D A % " & # '! " B= N % " & # % " " M A > I EJA D JJF M M M 6 A = ) I I? E=

Make these adjustments before racing

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