Classic Auto Air INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS CHRYSLER SANDEN COMPRESSOR CONVERSION KIT

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1 Classic Auto Air INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS CHRYSLER SANDEN COMPRESSOR CONVERSION KIT Congratulations! You have just purchased the highest quality, best performing factory air conversion kit ever designed for you Classic Car or truck. To obtain the high level of performance and dependability our systems are known for, pay close attention to the following instructions. This set of instructions is written as a general guide for all Chrysler cars and trucks. Most photos are of a Charger. Compressor mounting covers most issues you will experience with both big and small block engines. IMPORTANT INFORMATION 1. Before starting, read the instructions carefully and follow proper sequence. 2. Check condition of engine mounts. Excessive engine movement can damage hoses to A/C, heater, radiator, transcooler, and power steering systems. 3. Before starting, check vehicle interior electrical functions. i.e. interior lights, radio, horn, etc. When ready to start installation, disconnect battery. 4. Fittings. Use one or two drops of lubricant on o rings, threads and rear of bump for o ring where female nut rides. Do not use thread tape or sealants. Always use two wrenches to tighten fittings. 5. Shaft seals in a small percentage of compressors will require as much as 3-4 hours run time to become leak free. 6. Compressors supplied in our systems are filled with proper amount of oil. Do not add oil to system. 7. Compressor requires technician to hand turn revolutions before and after charging with liquid from a charging station before running system. 8. Compressors with damaged reed valves cannot be warranted. 9. Should you have any technical questions, or are suspect of missing, or defective parts, call us immediately. Our knowledgeable staff will be glad to assist you. YOU CAN NOW BEGIN THE INSTALLATION

2 DISASSEMBLY 1. If system is still charged with R-12 refrigerant it will need to be removed by a licensed technician with a recycling machine. 2. Remove original compressor, compressor brackets and both hoses to compressor. Do not remove fan belts on big block unless replacing. 3. Disconnect both hoses to compressor from firewall and condenser in front of radiator. Original condenser can be reused if in excellent condition. However for ultimate performance we recommend replacing with our ultra high performance Perfect Fit Series model specific condenser kit. Available for most popular applications. 4. Remove filter drier. If metal lines or hoses in or out of filter drier need replacing we can supply reproductions for most models. 5. Remove expansion valve located on evaporator fitting at the firewall. COMPRESSOR INSTALLATION C.I. Install front mounting plate to water pump housing. Some models with different power steering bracket may require modifications. Install rear support bracket to cylinder head per photo (440 shown). The 383 is a 90 degree L shaped bracket. Some models have the throttle return spring mounted to this hole. After the compressor is installed attach throttle return spring to top ear of compressor. Install compressor to front and rear mounts. Observe proper clock position of compressor fittings for your specific application. The Charger B body shown will be installed in the 9 o clock position when using original condenser. All other applications will require the hoses to be mocked up at this time for cleanest hose routing and to determine clock position of compressor fittings. (See hose section) Reinstall original belts and adjust tension.

3 COMPRESSOR INSTALLATION C.I. The following information is to be used as a supplement to the instructions supplied with the small block mount kit. This kit is made to fit all cars and trucks for the entire year range of 1960 s to early 1980 s engines. Due to this wide application range there may be modifications required for various years and models not shown here. If so call our tech dept for assistance before making changes. Following photos are from a 1970 model 340 C.I. engine. The rear alternator bracket will need to be trimmed at the black line. Reinstall rear alternator bracket. Install alternator with front support bar from kit. Alternator front support bar installs behind main compressor mounting bracket. Use gasket sealant on threads of 3 bolts for main compressor bracket to water pump. Remove bolt on right side of rear alternator bracket. This bolt will be replaced later with a longer bolt and spacer for rear compressor support. Grind relief into bottom rib of the water pump to provide clearance for the alternator belt. The alternator belt will now drive straight from crank shaft pulley to alternator without going around the water pump pulley. Notice forward most 1 groove crank shaft pulley from kit is already installed in this photo. Compressor belt will run in this groove. Next groove back will go around water pump and power steering. Third groove back directly to alternator. Fourth groove back not used.

4 This photo will show single belt from crank shaft pulley to alternator. Front alternator support bar from alternator pivot bolt to left compressor mounting bracket bolt. Notice rear compressor support bar, spacer and bolt thru rear alternator mount into cylinder head. First mount rear compressor support to ear of compressor. Then determine if spacer thickness is correct. All spacer lengths supplied in kit may be affected to provide perfect belt alignment. Photo to left shows idler pulley support bracket installed. This bracket is required. May require hole modification at end that attaches to the intake manifold. Photo to right shows rear compressor support bar installed. Mounts to top compressor ear and intake manifold bolt. This bracket may be helpful however is not totally necessary. It may be left off for fit or cosmetics reasons.

5 HOSE INSTALLATION There are three hose sizes. The two largest go to the compressor. The largest size is #10 and connects to the compressor then routes back to the firewall. The middle size is #8 and connects to the compressor then routes forward to top condenser fitting. Fittings with charge ports are more common at the compressor but can be located at either end of the hose. The compressor can also be rotated in its mounting (clock position) for the cleanest hose routing possible. TYPICAL BIG BLOCK TYPICAL SMALL BLOCK New filter drier supplied in kit can now be installed in original location. Transfer original pressure switch to new drier. Install new expansion valve supplied in kit. Smallest of the 3 hose sizes is #6 and connects to both sides of the filter drier. Out side of drier connects to expansion valve. In side of drier connects to bottom condenser fitting. These metal lines/hoses not part of kit. Classic Auto Air can supply reproductions of the original or universal replacement hoses. Make sure to install a new o ring on all fittings. Lubricate all o rings and fittings with 1 or 2 drops of A/C oil. Always use two wrenches to tighten fittings. A local A/C shop can crimp the hose fittings. OR: Classic Auto Air offers a free same day hose crimping service including ground shipping! NOTE: Draw a line with a black marker on hose and fitting to show clock position of fitting on hose. This will keep fittings in proper alignment when crimping to eliminate hose twist upon installation.

6 ELECTRICAL-CHARGING INSTRUCTIONS Mount thermostat switch supplied in kit to firewall. NOTE: Some Chrysler products already have a thermostat switch mounted on the plenum box up in the dash. If so do not use thermostat supplied in kit. Both the thermostat and the expansion valve have a temperature sensing capillary tube. Both capillary tubes must be properly secured to the #10 hose fitting next to expansion valve. A metal clip is supplied for this purpose however when securing two cap tubes a standard hose clamp works better. Both cap tubes must have good contact to the fitting. Fitting must be wrapped with black tacky tape. It is very important to insulate this area from engine compartment heat so system will cool properly. If vehicle is equipped with original thermostat no wiring changes are required. Connect original compressor wires to pressure safety switch on filter drier and compressor. A single clutch power wire from the factory system connects to the drier pressure safety switch. The other pressure switch terminal has a second wire that goes to the compressor. Thermostat supplied in the kit has two wire terminals. Connection will be made before or after pressure switch at drier. Cut only one wire either to or from the drier pressure switch. Crimp proper length of extra wire and a connector onto each end and attach to thermostat. Terminal position not important on thermostat. Connect original compressor clutch wire to compressor. Installation should now be finished and ready to charge with refrigerant. Vacuum pump system and charge with 134a refrigerant to 80% of original factory recommended charge amount. DO NOT USE ANY REFRIGERANT OTHER THAN 134a or R-12. Should system not perform properly please feel free to contact our tech dept for expert troubleshooting assistance.

7 Mopar Muscle Magazine Classic Auto Air's Big-Block Sanden A/C Conversion By Brad Ocock Photography by Brad Ocock Think back to, oh, say August. Remember how hot that cruise was on Saturday? It doesn't matter which Saturday, because in August, they were all hot. Same with June and July. Yeah, there's nothing like peeling yourself off of your vinyl seat covers and actually being glad to get out of the car because you can go stand in the shade (instead of being trapped in that greenhouse we call a passenger compartment) and enjoy what's passing for a breeze. Plus the back of your shirt will dry out, which is always nice. You know you've been there! The Paddock Project Charger was originally equipped with air conditioning, which owner Mike Paremsky was adamant about keeping. However, he wasn't particularly thrilled with the factory system for one reason: the compressor. First, the compressor is a dinosaur, and weighs nearly as much as one of the ancient reptiles. The factory RV-2 compressor is constructed of cast iron and weighs in at nearly 45 pounds. Because it was the original unit, the compressor would also have to be rebuilt to perform. Mike also wanted to convert the system over to R134a refrigerant for ease of maintenance, though as we've discussed in previous stories, this is easily accomplished during the rebuild process ("Ice Age Returns," Sept., Oct., Nov., 1999). Finally, its design isn't the most efficient, with one of the results being a parasitic loss on the engine of about horsepower. Heavy and horsepower robbing--not things you generally want on a performance vehicle, particularly on the nose of the vehicle. The stock A/C compressor: It gets the job done, but the technology behind it is close to 40 years old. It's heavy, not the most efficient, and it's bulky and none-to-attractive in a modified engine bay. We've worked with Classic Auto Air in Tampa, Florida, on other A/C system restorations and conversions, and as luck and timing would have it, they had just developed an A/C compressor retrofit kit that replaced the stock RV-2 compressor with a smaller, lighter and more efficient Sanden air compressor. The crux of their conversion is a pair of brackets that allow the Sanden compressor to mount in the stock location, even using the factory-length fan belts for the compressor clutch and the original hard refrigerant lines. This is truly a remove-and-replace deal that will net you a more efficient compressor with a parasitic loss of about three horsepower, works at a much higher rpm than the stock unit, is close to thirty pounds lighter than the iron pump, and is more attractive in the engine compartment due to its smaller, less clumsy design and aluminum housing. For those with really detailed engine compartments, Classic Auto Air also stocks fully polished aluminum Sanden compressors. Classic Auto Air also supplied us with brand new, correct reproduction A/C hard lines and restored our original plenum box. They checked and inspected all the other components of the system, replacing what was needed.

8 The system is supplied with the a new thermostat and expansion valve, so there are no other components to buy: just install the system and have it charged by a certified technician. And if you'd rather retain the original compressor, you want to concours restore your entire system, or you want to add A/C to a car that didn't originally come so equipped, Classic Auto Air can supply you with everything you'll need to cool the cabin. Not Cool Refrigerant The automotive, automotive aftermarket, and refrigerant industry (not to mention the federal government) only recognize R12 and R134a refrigerant as being safe and acceptable for automotive use. DuraCool 12a, HC12a, OZ12, OZ12a, and other hydrocarbon refrigerants are extremely flammable and totally illegal to use in an automotive A/C system. These refrigerants are designed for use in commercial refrigeration systems, not transportation environments. Commercial or industrial systems are completely plumbed with hard steel lines, with no rubber hoses to cut through or leak flammable refrigerant into a passenger or engine compartment, are out in the open rather than an enclosed area, and are not susceptible to crashes or accidents (breakage and sparks). Aside from the illegality of it, lubricants designed for use with R12 and R134a will chemically react with these other types of refrigerants, which will cause internal corrosion of your system, trashing your parts. The bottom line is this: R134a and R12 are the only legal refrigerants to use in your car. By using them, you won't suffer internal component failures, you won't contaminate the local shop's equipment when they service your system, it's not flammable, and it's the law. Al Sedita, owner of Classic Auto Air, did the installation on The Paddock Charger. He began by removing all the underhood components, including the original hard lines, expansion valve, filter/drier and compressor/boat anchor. Al showed us two things that are very common on old A/C systems, even those on cars that have been restored: the first is the use of common hose clamps. This is a big no-no, as the system is under pressure and hose-clamped couplings can fail. The other significant and very common problem is weak and corroded hard lines that have been repaired by brazing or soldering. It's common for original hard lines to rust through, especially behind the water bottle (where moisture often gets trapped) and where the line runs behind the battery (where acid fumes can eat through the steel tubing). Classic Auto Air manufactures a complete line of exact reproduction lines and fittings, so there is no longer a need to try and rescue your originals. This bracket is manufactured by Classic Auto Air specifically to mount a Sanden compressor to big-block Mopar applications in the factory location. It bolts to existing water pump housing bolts and goes right in place of the original compressor bracket. This chunk of billet steel, also designed and produced by Classic Auto Air, mounts the back of the compressor to an existing threaded hole in the cylinder head (the one the negative battery cable mounts to) with a counter-sunk cap screw. So now the front and rear of the aluminum compressor are solidly mounted to the engine. The negative battery cable can be grounded using either an intake manifold bolt, motor mount bolt, or anywhere else it will get a good ground.

9 Here's what the back mount for the compressor looks like installed. The little billet piece of steel is well thought out, very simple, and very solid....it's time to replace the hoses, lines, filter/drier and expansion valve, all of which install in the factory locations and look like factory pieces. After the compressor is mounted... Here's a detail shot of how exact CAA's reproductions fit Classic Auto Air's hard lines match perfectly. The crimped hose the factory originals. This hole in ends are also exact duplicates the top of the radiator core of Chrysler originals, for you support is a factory hole on A/C concours guys. equipped cars; the original lines going to and returning from the condenser run on each side of this hole, and a small bracket with a sheetmetal screw holds them down. Here's the nearly-finished installation. Mike wasn't done detailing the car and found out he needed a new heater core, so the final positioning of the heater hoses, etc. hasn't been done at this point. However, you can see here that the rubber lines for the compressor are going to run in a clean, orderly route, giving a factory-like appearance. Also note that both original-length fan belts are retained to drive the compressor clutch. One difference, however, is that both hoses come off the back of the Sanden compressor and run to the passenger side of the car, rather than one to that side, and the other to the driver's side as originally equipped with the old RV- 2 compressor. This configuration eliminates the hard line running behind the battery and crossing over the top of the radiator core support. This more direct routing, coupled with the Sanden's smaller body and aluminum finish, gives the engine compartment a less cluttered, much cleaner appearance.

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