Slinky Long Travel Suspension. Toyota Land Cruiser. 80 Series Installation Instructions

Transcription

1 Slinky Long Travel Suspension Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Series Installation Instructions

2 Table of Contents Tools Required... 4 Overview... 5 Torque Specs... 5 Step 1 - The Basics... 6 Step 2 - Penetrating Oil on Anything to Remove... 6 Step 3 - Remove Bump Stops and Sway Bar Brackets... 6 Step 4 - Shock Removal... 7 Step 5 - Rear Brake Line Removal and Installation... 7 Step 6 - Remove Rear Axle Breather Hose... 8 Step 7 - Spring Removal... 8 Step 8 - Coil Install... 9 Step 9 - Install the Shocks Step 10 - Install the Sway Bar Links Step 11 - Remove Old Front Shocks and Loosen Radius Arm Nuts Step 12 - Remove the Radius Arms Step 13 - Remove Cater Bushings (OEM) for New Caster Bushings Step 14 - Washer Mod / Caster / Plate Mods Step 15 - Install Radius Arms Step 16 - Install the Front Coils Step 17- Install Front Shocks Step 18 - Remove and Install Pan Hard Rods Step 19 Remove & Install Front Brake Lines Step 20 - Bleed Brake System Step 21 - Adjust Drag Link Step 22 - Install Front Sway Bay Drop Brackets Step 23 Complete! Figures / Images Figure 1 - Bump stops Figure 2 - Rear factory brake line to be replaced Figure 3 Rear sway bar drop bracket Figure 4 Rear upper shock mounting plate Figure 5 Shock mount bolt Figure 6 Stud bolts Figure 7 - Tap lower shock mount

3 Figure 8 Install shock Figure 9 Lower shock mount rock shields Figure 10 Stage 4 shock pin set up Figure 11 Install bump stops Figure 12 Rear sway bar mount Figure 13 Installing rear axle Figure 14 Connect brake line Figure 15 Install front coil Figure 16 Worm clamp positioning

4 Tools Required ½ Torque wrench, 20 ft. lbs to 200 ft. lbs. Full metric open end wrench set 8-19mm 22 and 24 mm open end wrenches Full MM socket set 8-19mm 22 and 24 mm socket set 10mm line wrench Pry Bar 12mm X 1.25 TAP Electric drill Wire wheel attachment for drill Screw driver set Floor jacks and jack stands ½ impact gun or wrench 3/8 impact or wrench Pipe wrench (for steering rod adjusting) Tape measure 12 Flat straight edge (for panhard adjusting) Side cutters Brake bleeding tube/bucket combo Press (for caster bushings {optional} Degree finder Anti-seize lube Air compressor (optional but recommended) 4

5 Overview Red Line s Slinky 80 Series Suspension features the following: Front Aus spec Toyota 80 Series TD and Petrol model Slinky Long Travel shocks Rear Aussie spec Slinky Long Travel shocks, with boots to protect shafts Dual Rate Coils with custom spec coil rate sway bar spacer kit front included required for clearance to front tailshaft when drooped Rear sway bar brackets Install kit [Bump stop drop adapters front and rear, rear control arm brackets Brake lines Torque Specs PANHARD Front and Rear Bolt (AXLE SIDE) 181 ft.lbs. PANHARD Front and Rear (FRAME SIDE) 130 ft.lbs. Rear Upper Control arms ( axle and frame side) 130 ft.lbs. Sway Bar Front and Rear (Large nut) 76 ft.lbs Radius Arm to Frame side Bolt/Nut 127 ft.lbs Radius Arm to Axle Side Bolt/Nut 127 ft.lbs 5

6 Step 1 - The Basics Find a good shop where you have plenty of room to work. If you have access to a lift, that s preferable. If you have to do it on jack stands, you ll need a buddy or two. We recommend using at least a twoton jack stand that can get pretty tall You ll need a good sturdy jack stand as well. Step 2 - Penetrating Oil on Anything to Remove It is not uncommon for bolts to break. We had a lower shock bolt that broke on us on the last install and it took 2 hours to drill the bolt out, bring the pieces out and re-tap the hole. Pre-lubricate everything (and sometimes heating up bolts before you start to turn them) gives you your best shot at not breaking any bolts and making your install quicker and easier. If you do break a bolt, don't panic, take a deep breath, and keep going. Step 3 - Remove Bump Stops and Sway Bar Brackets See FIGURE 1 below To remove the bump stops use a 12mm. Be careful with these bolts, they're known to break. We used a 3/8 impact to remove these and we're lucky...they all came out without breaking. The new bump stops we're installing are 70 series Land Cruiser bump stops. They're about 3/4" longer. You can use the factory bumps with a spacer if you want to, however for the Slinky Kit, you get the new 70 series bump stops. 6

7 To remove the sway bar brackets use a 12mm. To remove the sway bar from the extension end bracket use a 14mm. We used the 3/8 impact on this, as well. If all you have is a box wrench or a socket set, those will work fine, too. The sway bar can just hang for now. Step 4 - Shock Removal See FIGURE 4 Below First remove the lower shock bolt with a 17mm socket. This is another bolt that is known to be corroded so take extra care when removing this bolt. If it brakes, you might just decide to quit now or hire someone with a lot more patience than you. Next remove the upper shock bolts with a 14mm with a long extension. Finally, use a pry bar to pry off the lower shock mount (it was a little sticky) and then could remove the entire shock assembly. From there we placed the shocks on a work bench and removed the top nut (which is a 19mm) and then saved the rear shock top brackets for later use). Step 5 - Rear Brake Line Removal and Installation See FIGURE 2 below Using a 10mm line wrench, remove the rear brake hard line from the soft line. Next remove the brake line bracket from the frame. After that has been removed you can simply turn the soft brake line counterclockwise to spin the soft line from the axle with the bracket in tact. Our new brake line is 5" longer (this comes with the Slinky kit) 7

8 Reassemble with a c clip and the old Toyota clip. Now install the new rear brake line. This should pretty straight forward. Install the axle side first, otherwise you'll end up twisting your brake line to the point where it's useless. Step 6 - Remove Rear Axle Breather Hose This might have already come out on it's own, but using a 12mm remove the bracket. Then replace the old hose with a new, 24" length of 1/4" rubber hose. You can use fuel or vacuum hose or whatever. Take out the breather top vent, bracket an bottom clamp. Reinstall into new hose and then reinstall by connecting via the bracket to the frame. Step 7 - Spring Removal First loosen the rear pan hard rods at axle side using a 24mm. Second, loosen the lower control arms at the axle side, also a 24mm. Just loosen the nut side, not the bolt side. Third, do the upper control arms on the axle side. Loosen those nuts, as well, which are 24mm. When you loosen all these 24mm bolts everything will begin to drop, so be prepared and keep your head out of the way so you don't end up needing to go to the sidelines for a concussion protocol or something. Now you can remove the springs. If you didn't leave yourself enough room doing this on jack stands, you might need to raise the chassis a bit in order for the axle to droop so the springs can come out. You need full droop and about 6" of distance between the bottom of the rotor and the ground in order to remove the springs. To remove the springs simply 8

9 pick them up off the lower seat, lean the lower end forward and they should come right out. The Slinky coils provide the perfect blend of on and off road use. I can enjoy a comfy ride on the highway, but at the same time go and hammer a trail and be just as comfortable and in control on the toughest trails. The intermediate coil is designed to carry an additional load capacity of 400 pounds while the heavy can carry 900 additional pounds. The Slinky springs operate on the theory of "pre-load" - the OME springs will carry the load no problem but when they droop when you're on a trail when the axle drops out, the OMEs may unseat from the coil bucket and bang around. The Slinky springs might unseat a bit, too, but they will unseat less than the OMEs. Less unseating results in the coils not banging around as much. I don't want to get too much into suspension theory here, but the long and the short of it is this...slinky coils will make everything from moving around too much and give you a smoother ride. Step 8 - Coil Install To install the coils pay attention to the coil tags because there is a left hand and right hand coil. The coils are labeled with "LH" for left hand and "RH" for right hand. The left handed one goes on the driver side. The right handed one goes on the passenger side. The left handed one is about 1/4" taller to account for the added weight of the gas tank and the driver on the left side. This combats the "Cruiser Lean" that you often see on Land Cruisers. To install make sure the little rubber grommet is in there on the top of the coil. This prevents the coil from making too much noise. Swing the coil up and into place and then swing the bottom of the coil into the coil bucket and ensure the ail of the coil is positioned correctly. It may or may not be necessary to have someone stand on the axle in order to get it to go down so you can get the coils seated. 9

10 Step 9 - Install the Shocks See FIGURES 5,6,7,8,9 and 10 below Woo-ha-ha. Now we get into the fun part. Installing your beautiful, shiny, ride-like-a-bat-out-of-hell-and-stay-in-control Slinky shocks. Prep the lower shock mount by cleaning it up with a wire wheel brush or cup brush. Get all the corrosion and crap off of there so your new shocks mount up nice and clean. Next unpack everything and lay it all out. Identify the top plates for the shock by the stamping "L" for left and "R" for right. The top of the shock goes together like this: Washer, bushing, top plate, bushing, washer, first nut and then the jamb nut. Swing in your shock and then bolt the top plate to the frame leaving them about a 1/4" loose. Then reattach the shock on the lower axle side. Be sure to clean threads on the bolt and the hole on the lower shock bolt. The thread pitch is 12mm x Make sure they're nice and clean so you can apply anti seize to the bolt and outside of the axle shock mount (see photos). The Slinky kit comes with a stone shield that protects the lower shock mount. These will need to be cut (see photo) 2 5/8" off the top before installing them (this prevents the stone shield from damaging your shock when fully compressed). Then bolt them on to about 30 ft. lbs. You may need a second guy to pull down the axle to get the shocks in. You may also need a plastic dead blow hammer to pound in the shock over the axle shock shaft. Now go back and tighten the top two bolts that go into the frame on the top of the shock. (Note this next step is for Stage 4 shocks only). There is a ring clamp holder and a worm clamp that need to be bolted on the 10

11 shock so it holds it against the frame so the CDC valve cannot rotate and get damaged. We didn't have a nice new pair on our hands, so we took advantage of a good used set that we had access to. This next step might be tricky if you're on jack stands because visibility may be limited. You need to tighten the top shock nut and ratchet on the first nut to a point where your jamb nut can go on nice and snug while leaving two threads visible at the end of the shaft. It's preferable to use a gear wrench to do this. CRITICAL: Have a second guy hold the shock on the very top of the shock and the very bottom of the shock and NOT by the reservoir. You will break the reservoir off if you hold the reservoir while trying to tighten everything down. There are no torque specs to consider here...it's all about leaving those two threads visible at the end of the shaft when you're all done. You can use a strap wrench to help hold the shock in place. Boom, on to step 10. Step 10 - Install the Sway Bar Links See FIGURES 3, 12, and 13 below Next install your new bump stops and sway bar drop brackets. Be sure to use anti-seize on your bolts. Your new sway bar links include new extensions, new bushings and washers. These new ones don't leave you a lot of room to install ahead of time. You'll need to install them with weight on the axle in order to compress the bushings, giving you enough space on the extension shaft to get the nut threaded on at the end. Once you've got weight on your axle, use a jack to push up the end of the sway bar into the sway bar bracket so it compresses the bushing so you can get your washer and nut on. Thread the nut so as to leave two threads visible. 11

12 Pretty much every bolt you thread back on, put anti seize on it. It will make it easier for servicing. Now your sway bar is installed. With full weight on your axle, torque down your control arm nuts, pan hard bolts, and all the factory torque specs. Step 11 - Remove Old Front Shocks and Loosen Radius Arm Nuts Remove your old front shocks and then loosen the radius arm nuts...yep. I just said that in my subject heading. Next remove the front sway bar mounts on the frame side. Then remove your brake lines following the same steps you followed removing the rear brake lines. Step 12 - Remove the Radius Arms Using a 22mm and 24mm remove the Radius arms by backing out the nuts and then punching out the bolts with a punch and a hammer as they may be sticky. Step 13 - Remove Cater Bushings (OEM) for New Caster Bushings Install with diagram using a press. Here is a link for a detailed install: Step 14 - Washer Mod / Caster / Plate Mods SEE SEPARATE CASTER CORRECTION LINKS on our website here: 12

13 We want to achieve a total of 4 degrees of caster correction. 2 degrees with the bushings and 2 degrees with the washer mod. (Now this is for 80 series that have not had caster change yet.) You might already have Caster change. Depending on what you have will dictate what you need to do to achieve 4 degrees total. This also depends on the lift size! For a 50mm kit, just the caster bushings or washer mod is desirable for 2 degrees total. For the 75mm lift you will need both for a total of 8ish degrees. End caster that must be achieved on flat ground is degrees! Step 15 - Install Radius Arms Reverse procedure from removal. Torque to specified specs above Step 16 - Install the Front Coils See FIGURES 13B below Step 17- Install Front Shocks See FIGURES 15 and 16 below Put the upper stud mount in first on the frame side, then push down on the axle to allow the lower stud mount to place in the axle side bracket. You may have to have a buddy help you collapse the shock a bit to install it. Bolt down the shocks using the Icon shock instructions in the shock box. Step 18 - Remove and Install Pan Hard Rods Adjust pan hard rods equally from side to side. This requires a 24 mm wrench. 13

14 Measure the distance from the frame to the inside of the tire on both sides. Then remove the frame side of the pan hard and adjust to half of the distance you measured. Reinstall the pan hard and re-measure. Repeat until complete. NOTE: this must be done with the weight of the cruiser on the ground. Torque the bolts to factory specs above. Step 19 Remove & Install Front Brake Lines See FIGURE 14 below Remove the brake lines and reinstall the new brake lines supplied with the kit. Use a 10 and 17mm line wrench so you don t strip the factory metal hard line ends. NOTE: If you have a 1991 to Series, it only used one 4 extended brake line for driver s side, which comes in the kit. You will have a brake line left over in your kit. Step 20 - Bleed Brake System Keep bleeding all calipers and rear prop adjusting valve until hard pedal is achieved. Step 21 - Adjust Drag Link Adjust drag link (front steering rod that attaches to the pitman arm). We like to loosen the rod clamps, remove the stabilizer mount to make this a little easier. Place truck on ground with the full weight and front tires straight. Next, turn the rod and watch the steering wheel. By turning the rod and 14

15 watching the steering wheel, you can keep turning the rod until the wheel becomes straight again! Tighten and remount the bracket! Step 22 - Install Front Sway Bay Drop Brackets Using the supplied front sway bar hardware, install the brackets. Tighten the bolts to 22 ft. lbs. Step 23 Complete! Enjoy the best kit on the market! 15

16 Figures / Images Figure 1 - Bump stops 16

17 Figure 2 - Rear factory brake line to be replaced 17

18 Figure 3 Rear sway bar drop bracket 18

19 Figure 4 Rear upper shock mounting plate Rear upper shock mounting plate to be removed. Right and left specific. 19

20 Figure 5 Shock mount bolt Clean shock mount bolt with a wire wheel 20

21 Figure 6 Stud bolts Keep upper stud bolts loose until plate is mounted. Then tighten upper bolts 21

22 Figure 7 - Tap lower shock mount Tap with 12mm x 1.25 tap 22

23 Figure 8 Install shock 23

24 Figure 9 Lower shock mount rock shields Trim lower stone shields, Take off worth 24

25 Figure 10 Stage 4 shock pin set up Rear stage 4 shock pin locking set up. This is so the CDC valves don t rotate and hit the frame. Use wo rm clamp to lock into place. (Lower pic) 25

26 Figure 11 Install bump stops 26

27 Figure 12 Rear sway bar mount 27

28 Figure 13 Installing rear axle B 28

29 Figure 14 Connect brake line 29

30 Figure 15 Install front coil 30

31 Figure 16 Worm clamp positioning Shock installed with correct rotation and worm clamp (FRONT) 31