Cackle cure Kit Installation by Pete Cleveland (aka FTE) for Dino Fuel Alternatives

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Horace Craig
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1 Cackle cure Kit Installation by Pete Cleveland (aka FTE) for Dino Fuel Alternatives March 26, 2007 Test Vehicle: 2002 Ford F250 XLT, 7.3L PowerStroke TurboDiesel, 2WD, Crew Cab, SWB, SRW, 124,000 miles Modifications before Testing: AIH delete, 6637, zoodad, and OilGuard bypass Engine Oil: Amsoil DEO 5w40, approximately 4000 miles on oil & filters at time of testing Testing Location: Birmingham, Alabama Testing Parameters: Audio Wave and Spectrum Analysis, acceleration speeds Road Conditions for Testing: Hilly roads and highways, few long runs of level road surface INSTALLATION The installation was not difficult, but was very tedious. It took approximately 5 hours for the complete install, which is significantly longer than it should take most mechanically inclined individuals. I stopped frequently to make notes and take photographs. I was also helped by my oldest two sons (18 and 14) who were very interested in the entire project and what it was supposed to accomplish. This job could probably be completed easily in under three hours by someone who is more experienced in working on diesel engines. There were only two problems encountered, neither having anything to do with the equipment supplied by DFA. First, I unknowingly lost one of the flexible compression grommets that goes in the Vibra Lok tee, and had to locate a replacement, which required visits to various parts stores. I finally had to use a grommet for a larger fuel line, and made it fit by stretching this larger grommet on a 3/8 inch brass rod and slicing the grommet in a spiral pattern. The spiral slice allowed me to wrap the grommet around the fuel line, which also allowed it to fit inside the Vibra Lok cap. The sliced grommet did not leak at all due to the compression created in tightening the Vibra lok fittings. The second problem was a temporary delay to super glue some tape strips across the tip of my thumb that got sliced open on the very sharp edge of the fan blade (wrench slipped). INITIAL ENGINE STARTUP Once the installation was complete and the fuel pump was cycled, the engine started perfectly. I revved the engine for a few minutes, verified that there were no leaks, and then put everything away for the night. The next afternoon, I took the truck through the same sound recording and acceleration routines I had used for before installing the kit. About 5 minutes after starting the engine, which again started normally on that Sunday afternoon, I experienced a momentary skip or miss that happened twice in very quick succession. I had never experienced this before, but the interesting thing is that it has not happened again since. My conclusion is that it must have been a slight bit of air trapped in the fuel rails that finally worked its way out.

2 Installation Instructions and Details for 2002 model PSD Tools Needed: 8mm socket 13mm deep socket 13mm standard socket ratchet(s) ¼ inch and 3/8 inch plumber s tubing cutter vice grip or 6 inch adjustable wrench fuel line wrenches 5/16 box end wrench Locktite Thread Locker blue, medium strength Pint or quart container (to catch fuel from draining fuel filter bowl) Small bungee cord Legend for Schematic 1 OEM diesel supply line 2 OEM diesel return line 3 Engine valley 4 OEM fuel filter housing 5 OEM fuel ports & lines 6 Previously unused fuel ports 7 Passenger side Cackle cure hose 8 Driver side Cackle cure hose 9 Short Cackle cure hose 10 Return orifice tee 11 5/16 inch Vibra Lok tee Driver Side rear 6 5

3 INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS 1. Before working on the engine, go ahead and install the shortest fuel hose (#9) from the kit to both the return orifice tee (#10) and the Vibra Lok tee (#11) fitting that came in the kit. Tighten the hose connection on the Vibra Lok tee, but leave the connection to the Return Orifice tee finger tight for now. i. CAUTION: make sure to not lose the tubing grommets inside the compression caps, or the fittings will not create a seal on the hard fuel line and you will experience severe fuel leakage. 2. If present, remove PowerStroke cover (above fuel filter #4) using 13mm deep well socket. 3. Drain the fuel from the fuel filter housing in order to prevent spillage of diesel fuel into the engine valley when you later disconnect the fuel lines. 4. The fuel lines must be loose so that when they are disconnected from the Fuel Filter Housing, the fuel return line can be pulled up high enough to be cut with the tubing cutter. You may have to bend the fuel supply line slightly out of the way or use a bungee cord if you re working by yourself to hold it out of the way. All or some of these next steps may or may not be required, depending upon what you need to do in order to get the fuel lines free enough to move upwards as much as 6 8 inches. See Pics 1 3. a. Remove the single fuel line bracket bolt that is located on front of engine, driver s side, beneath the water pump housing, 13mm b. Release the tension on the serpentine belt and remove it from the alternator and power steering pump pulleys (you can use a large ½ inch ratchet with no socket in the square opening on the belt tensioner) c. There are two sensors that need to be disconnected near the fuel filter housing (Engine Oil Temperature and Injection Control Pressure sensors). These are both located on the right hand side of the filter housing when standing in front of the truck looking towards the engine. The ICP sensor is connected to the driver side valve cover, while the EOT sensor is mounted on the beck side of the HPOP. Remove both sensor s connectors and push them back out of the way for easier access to the fuel lines. d. Remove the 4 13mm bolts that hold the alternator and power steering pump bracket to the front of the engine CAUTION: be very careful of the back edges of the fan blades, as they are very sharp and can easily cut an arm, hand, or finger e. Disconnect both the supply and return fuel lines from the right (driver) side of the fuel filter housing (# s 1 and 2). The larger of these lines (#1) is from the fuel pump to the filter housing, and is located near the bottom of the fuel filter housing on the driver side. The other, smaller line (#2) is located almost directly above the line feeding the fuel filter housing, and is the line that returns unused fuel back to the fuel tank. 5. Locate where to install the Vibra Lok tee in the return fuel line (vertical portion right after the tubing bends down from the fuel filter housing is typically the best location). See Pic Cut the return fuel line (#2) and remove approx. one inch of tubing to make room for the Vibra Lok tee. No need to flare the ends of the tubing, as the Vibra Lok fittings are rated for up to 225 psi, which is well above the actual pressure in this fuel return line. 7. Install the Vibra Lok tee (with the short hose attached), making sure to get the fuel line tubing well inside the compression grommets and the tubing seated against the metal bottom of the tee fitting, and tighten the compression nuts. See Pic Re install both fuel lines back to the fuel filter housing. 9. Re install the alternator and power steering pump bracket back onto the front of the engine, but leave the serpentine belt loose for now. 10. Re connect the two sensors that you disconnected earlier.

4 11. Re install the 13mm bolt on the fuel line bracket beneath the water pump housing. (Pic 2.) 12. Loosen the 3 nuts that hold down the coolant overflow bottle on top of the radiator. 13. Remove the single 13mm bolt that attaches the belt tensioner to the air conditioning bracket. 14. Remove all 4 of the 13mm bolts that hold the air conditioning bracket on the front of the engine block. 15. Remove the fuel plug (#6) on the passenger side. This plug has a 3/16 inch square head on it and may be covered by a wire loom that can be pushed aside for easier access. Use either vice grips or an adjustable wrench to break this plug free. Then use a 5/16 inch wrench/socket to complete its removal. See Pics 5 and Using thread lock (do NOT use plumbers Teflon tape, because it can get into an injector and foul it), install one of the supplied 1/8 NPT fittings in place of the plug. 17. Connect the medium length hose to a #4jic fitting, again using thread lock. 18. Connect the jic fitting at the end of the hose onto the NPT fitting that you installed in the fuel port, again using thread lock. 19. Make sure that the hose connection is tight. See Pic Re install the air conditioning bracket on the front of the engine. 21. Re install the belt tensioner. 22. Re install the serpentine belt on all the pulleys. 23. Re install the three nuts that hold down the coolant overflow bottle. 24. Remove your cold air intake hose/tube and inlet tube from the turbo for easier access to the rear fuel port fitting on the driver s side. 25. Remove this rear fuel port plug in a similar fashion as used for the first one. See Pic Install the last 1/8 NPT fitting into the fuel port where the plug was located, making sure to use thread lock. 27. Use thread lock and connect the last hose from the kit (#8), which should be the longest hose, to a #4jic fitting. 28. Using thread lock, install the jic fitting (with the hose attached) to the 1/8 NPT fitting that you just installed in the rear fuel port. 29. Tighten the hose and fitting connections well. See Pic Route the hose underneath the turbo intake tube path so that it falls close to the Return Orifice tee. NOTE: The hoses supplied in this kit are Biodiesel compatible as well as fire and vibration resistant. Close proximity to the turbo will not affect the hose. 31. Re install the turbo intake tube and the cold air intake hose/tube. 32. Using thread lock, connect the two longer fuel lines to the Return Orifice tee and tighten the connections. See Pic Get ready to test for leaks. 34. Insert the key into the ignition and turn it on without starting the engine so that the fuel pump will begin re filling the fuel filter housing. Leave the switch on for about 20 seconds, and then turn the switch off. 35. Repeat Step 38 at least two more times before trying to actually start the engine so that you can purge any potentially entrained air from the fuel supply lines. 36. Start the engine and check for leaks. 37. If there are no leaks, you can re install the PowerStroke cover that was taken off in Step 2, if desired. 38. You should take the truck out to run it for at least minutes as a way to ensure that all potential air has been completely purged from the entire fuel supply/return system.

5 Installation Photos Cap on Fuel Filter Housing Fuel Supply Line Fuel Return Line ICP sensor EOT sensor Looking up from under truck. Oil Pan, driver side, front corner Ground Wire on Block Fuel Line Bracket & Nut Pic #1 Pic #5 Pic #7 Pic #10 Final connection of all three hoses in Orifice Tee Tip of Driver s side rear fuel port Pic #8 Pic #6 Fuel Port plug removed Passenger Front Fuel Port plug Pic #4 JIC Fitting and hose installed in front fuel port. Fuel Return Line cut Mark for second cut Alternator bracket Pic #2 VibraLok fitting installed Pic #3 Pic #9 JIC fitting and hose installed in rear fuel port

BETA Test Report Cackle cure Kit Evaluation by Pete Cleveland (aka trucks.com) for Dino Fuel Alternatives April 3, 2007

BETA Test Report Cackle cure Kit Evaluation by Pete Cleveland (aka F250_ @ www.ford trucks.com) for Dino Fuel Alternatives April 3, 2007 Test Vehicle: 2002 Ford F250 XLT, 7.3L Power Stroke Turbo Diesel,